Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Cam Timing Question

Ed.williams5
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ed.williams5 Enthusiast

Ed.williams5

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I started pulling everything to do my water pump today and have gotten to pulling the timing belt. I have the cam marks lined up for the intake and crank however my exhaust cam is advanced by 1 tooth. I have searched a lot and read you can gain mid range by doing this. What is troubling me is if I retard the exhaust cam and make it so all the marks line up correctly is this going to throw off my tune? Will this make any other differences that I should be aware of? Mod list in signature any information appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465502-exhaust-cam-timing-question/
Share on other sites
Ed.williams5 Enthusiast

Ed.williams5

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Got the water pump and timing belt replaced, ended up just keeping timing marks aligned in stock orientation as fsm says. Weird thing happened though.

After finishing job I started the car to burp the cooling system, all was well started fine and idles smooth, however once it got to operating temp it's like a switch flipped...idle was super rough and when given throttle would miss and sputter. I made sure all alignment marks were correct when I buttoned it up and the car ran perfectly for around 15 minutes. I can't figure out what the issue is. I let the car cool down and even on a cold start its running rough. Any suggestions?

Edited by Ed.williams5
Ed.williams5 Enthusiast

Ed.williams5

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So an update:

Car idles but sounds like it has a miss. I went ahead and replaced the coolant temp sensor thinking that may be the issue however even with the replacement it's still running like crap.

I made sure that car is timed correctly at 15* btdc with tps unplugged, I did notice however when adjusting timing nothing really clears the stumble up whether I advance or retard the timing. I may see if I can find a known working cas to see if that solves the issue.

Either way I know it has to be something electrical because it literally started running like crap at the flick of a switch.

Ed.williams5 Enthusiast

Ed.williams5

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll look into that next kiwi. I am running ls coils at the moment however I was thinking and wonder if I hook up to my Ecu if it maybe can point me toward the issue too (running haltech platinum pro)

Ed.williams5 Enthusiast

Ed.williams5

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:

Don't know why I didn't do it sooner lol. Hooked up my laptop and pulled codes and a datalog. Had 3 codes 2 tps codes from when I was adjusting timing and 1 engine overheat code. Car was running in limp mode with as safety from ECU. Cleared all codes and car runs perfect once again. Was also able to verify my timing through the haltech which is right at 18* base so may go back and adjust it down ever so slightly to 15*. Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...