Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So 3 times now whilst driving my 260RS in a straight line, my rear steering has made the whole rear of my car "wiggle" within its lane. Even though it happened at low speeds, it's very unnerving.

Car has recently had the entire engine out for a full rebuild, and since then it's towing slightly to the left.

As much I love 4 wheel steering, the fact that the rear steer has done this more than once is making me want to remove the Hicas and install a lock bar.

Does anyone have any idea as to why the hicas would have done this? And how do I fix it WITHOUT installing a lock bar?

704a8ae227f7c827db0306994913e46a.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465627-my-hicas-has-a-mind-of-its-own/
Share on other sites

I removed mine immediately after it steered me into a tree. Luckily I was able to avoid hitting the tree, but it still gave me an all mighty fright...

I'd suggest taking it to a suspension specialist to go over the alignment. 

  • Like 2

Mine tried to kill me many times (steering would 'kick' randomly). I unplugged the computer in the boot. There's still some power going to the system (for the two speed steering, some solenoid somewhere randomly gets a surge of current).

Damn 90's electronics.

Mine tried to kill me many times (steering would 'kick' randomly). I unplugged the computer in the boot. There's still some power going to the system (for the two speed steering, some solenoid somewhere randomly gets a surge of current).

Damn 90's electronics.

I thought of doing this, but my concern was... How do I know that once turned off that the rear wheels will run straight and true??

My HICAS tried to pitch me off the road (and towards 2 cyclists who were riding along the road shoulder).  Very unnerving, and that was only 60km/h.  The rear steering went hard right until it hit the end stop, and then faulted like that.  

If that had happened at 110 it would have been nasty.  If I'd been on a racetrack doing 180... yikes. 

I used to be an advocate for HICAS but hearing more reports of them failing in this way (and having it happen to me) has changed my mind.

Install a driftworks HICAS lock bar (they are the only one that warranty their pillowball bearings) and move on with your life.  Pillowball bearings are illegal (at least in NSW) because of their abrupt failure modes but rear wheel steering is a very light load compared with having them in other suspension components so they should last quite a long time.

I painted mine black so they don't stand out, but if I'm pulled up about them I will happily discuss the questionable safety of keeping the factory system vs modifying my car to be safe.  

Otherwise, install a kit that maintains the stock tie rods and ball joints.  My ball joints were wearing out anyway so I bought a kit that replaced everything.

OP any unusual corrugations etc. on the road surface when this happened? I'm asking since I had a issue of the rear 'sidestepping' quite severely over expansion joints, I thought it was HICAS but turns out it was actually a blown rear shock on one side. Essentially no damping -> no proper control over hard bumps on that side. Very unnerving.

I ended up doing a full HICAS delete too. Just like others have said it's likely that your stock ball joints are worn anyway and a full delete kit replaces those.

This happened to me two weeks ago in the wet and my car went sideways into a bus stop. $1000 to pull the body straight, put a new door and and fix my side skirts (it's still at the body shop). 

As soon as I get it back i'm taking it to a suspension place to get it looked at, and if they can't sort it out i'm removing it.

DSC_0388.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...