High stall TC

[paulzy123]

Hi all,,

Thanks for your input with the trans she's still holding up and will hopefully still do when she go's on the dyno for mapping in a couple of weeks time.

Being a bit of a drag head and loving the quarter mile I was thinking that if my box does give up sooner rather than later and has to be replaced then it would make perfect sense to me to install an uprated higher stall TC whilst the box is out. Thing is I'm not entirely sure where I'd find one for my Spec 2 r33 gtst, there doesn't seem to be anyone that can shed light on this over here so once again I am here with cap in hand asking for info.

I think the stock TC stalls at around 1400 so I was thinking I maybe want something around the 2500 mark? something I could still use on the roads getting to and from the strip with the odd day out here and there but with a slightly higher stall so I just get that better launch at the strip.

Can I just buy any old TC and slap it in? I think not, so is there anywhere that will convert a stock one or has anyone got one kicking around in their workshop they can sell me?

I understand it will be a bit more of a pig to drive but the MV shift kit feels like a kid kicking the back of your seat when it changes at low speed so comfort is already lost.

Any suggestions (other than put a manual box in it), help and guidance always welcomed.

Thanks

 

 

[Kinkstaah]

Buy mine

I had a similar problem when I went looking, and ended up getting a custom one made for my purposes (not drag) from TCE but it cost around the $1600 mark.

Prior to this I had a rebuilt one for the R34 box which had a stall of about 2500 mark, could be convinced to go to about 3k with some heavy convincing. But in the end I needed more for 400+kw that I am now running. Not much, but I wanted it to get going in 1st gear on the street so I upgraded. I still have the old TC for sale.

And of course if you want the entire gearbox feel free to buy mine too, because unlike yours, mine shifts nice down low and kicks hard at high RPM, which is the benefit of having a standalone ecu to control the gearbox as opposed to making it just shift harder all the time.

Though in the real world, that option is prohibitively expensive. I certainly wouldn't do it again unless you want a super drag gearbox that has good road manners which is sort of what I ended up having, lol.

[paulzy123]

LOL

A super drag gearbox that has good road manners  that's kind of what I'm aiming for long term, I've a friend (Just the one!) with an auto too he was having his mapped today its a bit of a madman build, running 1.5 bar and also says he needs a TC but hasn't got a clue where to look for one.

How much was normal road driving changed by having the higher stall TC fitted?

$1600 for a TC that's a tidy sum of money.

[Kinkstaah]

That's the thing, there isn't one that you can buy off a shelf. Everything you can get that is decent is custom, really because drag cars and turbo cars in general are best off being matched to the right TC, unless its a factory engine.

And most factory engines have a torque converter matched to them by the manufacturer, if its a factory engine.

 

I went in with a dyno sheet with my converter that was in there and got TCE in Melbourne to match it.

In my case it was only beneficial. The gears in a skyline are long, and there was a big dead spot at about 60kmh if you wanted to get onto power because its the bleeding top of 1st, and too low in 2nd to be on boost if you make 400kw. The torque converter plugged that hole and it also plugged the hole for having boost and decent takeoff in 1st with a laggier turbo. My road driving is really quite fine with it. Shifts under the converter limit are un-noticeable. Most people don't know I am actually changing gears with the pedals on the wheel at anything under 4000rpm.

But you really want it when the rest of the build is pretty finalized.

My ECU for the Gearbox was about $1500 on its own, plus tune, plus wiring, etc. Torque Converter for $1600, custom flex plate (none exist on a shelf), and then you do the actual vale body upgrades and general gearbox strengthening, coolers, fans for coolers, etc. It adds up.

My other stall (the one I have for sale) was near-un-noticeable over stock. It was definitely a more 2500ish stall and probably better if you had somewhere in the ~250kw region. I.e, a sensible street setup.

 

I would sell my entire setup and go manual if there ever was a buyer for it. The thing is, its a road less travelled massively but it can be made to work (surprisingly well) but Nissan did make a damn good alternative right from the factory with a clutch pedal that most people find more fun. And sometimes fun is better than fast, especially on the road.

[paulzy123]

Shucks....so what you are saying is I have to get my Hp/torque where I want it then buy a TC or actually get one custom to my cars output? That sounds like an expensive game as it's always changing but then I guess these things are never cheap.

pm me a price on the TC. But now what you've said it may not match my car! Lol bloody headaches....

I'm really against going manual (don't get me wrong I've a manual smoker car I use for work but the Mrs bought me the skyline and insists its staying auto, hmmmm more than one way to skin a cat!!!) 

so the challenge is on for quick auto.

Ive struggled at the strip too this year which drives me harder in my pursute.

What's your best et and 60ft if you don't mind me asking...

 

[Kinkstaah]

TC's are always best matched to the rest of the setup, they are sensitive to the torque actually applied to them to achieve the target slip that they're set to make.

I.e my 3400 stall may not be your 3400 stall. When I asked for my custom one made they wanted engine blueprints from the engine builder (which I had) which they devoured along with a dyno sheet from the current converter.

My ET and 60ft are very bad.
Tyres are the secret to that. The best I've taken down there are Yoko AD08R's which are a great street/track tyre but I find it a struggle to get them to bite at all, but at least this isn't a fault of the torque converter/engine/turbo lag match it was initially

[EvangelicAtheist]

Great thread, thanks for starting it Paul.

having just purchased an RE4R03A and eyeing up a standalone TCU I figured I better come to the sunny side to find out what I am getting into...

My car is a '94 s1 r33 gtst that I imported from Japan back in '05 and have gradually modified and occasionally wrecked in the subsequent years.  The current RE4R01A box is standard except for a valve body / shift kit and coolers.

current focus is getting my newly fitted GT3582 working via an eManage blue which is proving a bit of an expensive pain, but once that's sorted I should be seeing some decent HP running c. 1.5 ish bar... The e-01 boost controller is struggling to hold the boost down in conjunction with the waste gate it's got fitted, and I saw a wallet troubling 3.23 bar at one point as we were messing about with the actuator, and I am struggling to build any boost at all in 1st and 2nd.  All part of the fun.

not interested in manual, don't ask me why, I just like the idea of a fast auto skyline and in for a penny... So keen to learn from people who have been there and done it.

Tim

 

 

Edited August 3, 2016 by EvangelicAtheist
Wrong word used