Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nelkel's R32 GTR Build

Hey Guys,

I thought I would put together a build/project thread here.

I imported my 1993 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR to South Africa in 2013 and have only recently started modifying it. I have been documenting my journey on my Youtube Channel. https://www.youtube.com/c/nelkelgtrvlogs

I will update this thread accordingly. As it stands the car has the following modifications.

Tein Super Street Coilovers

Cusco Swaybars

Nismo Camber arms

BuddyClub P1 Racers 17x9

HKS 63mm Intakes

HKS EVC 5 

76mm Downpipes

90mm Exhaust Kakimoto backbox

Battery Relocation

MINE VX Rom

 

Over the next few months I will be doing a clutch change, respray, big brake kit, GT2860-5 Turbos and supporting modifications. I will be filming all work on car and will be uploading to my channel weekly. I'm hoping that along the way I can make new friends and also help someone by providing informative DIY and How to guides.

Here's a short video I put together of my R32 GTR. Hope you enjoy.

Check out my other videos as I do JDM discussions and reviews. 

I'll be doing a silicone radiator kit installation in the next few days and will post it here as soon as I am complete.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466876-nelkels-r32-gtr-build/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Nelkel's R32 GTR Build Hey Guys,
I thought I would put together a build/project thread here.
I imported my 1993 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR to South Africa in 2013 and have only recently started modifying it. I have been documenting my journey on my Youtube Channel. https://www.youtube.com/c/nelkelgtrvlogs
I will update this thread accordingly. As it stands the car has the following modifications.
Tein Super Street Coilovers
Cusco Swaybars
Nismo Camber arms
BuddyClub P1 Racers 17x9
HKS 63mm Intakes
HKS EVC 5 
76mm Downpipes
90mm Exhaust Kakimoto backbox
Battery Relocation
MINE VX Rom
 
Over the next few months I will be doing a clutch change, respray, big brake kit, GT2860-5 Turbos and supporting modifications. I will be filming all work on car and will be uploading to my channel weekly. I'm hoping that along the way I can make new friends and also help someone by providing informative DIY and How to guides.
Here's a short video I put together of my R32 GTR. Hope you enjoy.
Check out my other videos as I do JDM discussions and reviews. 
I'll be doing a silicone radiator kit installation in the next few days and will post it here as soon as I am complete.

Hey Nelkel,
I noticed you said you were going with Garrett 2860-5 turbos, I have just had mine put in, and was wondering if you got yours done yet and what sort of power you are making/plan to make with what supporting mods? Mine is due for a dyno run today actually and am eager to see how she does [emoji16]
4 hours ago, Bennjamiin said:


Hey Nelkel,
I noticed you said you were going with Garrett 2860-5 turbos, I have just had mine put in, and was wondering if you got yours done yet and what sort of power you are making/plan to make with what supporting mods? Mine is due for a dyno run today actually and am eager to see how she does emoji16.png

Hey Ben! 

Unfortunately the GT2860's have been put on hold until end of Feb/March next year due to the fact that I couldn't resist importing the Mazda RX7 FD. Wrt to supporting mods..

1. Fuel Pump

2. Fuel pump rewire

3. Injectors (Need to research)

4. Mishimoto radiator

5. Alu Hard pipe kit (Intake side)

6. Haltech Plat ECU

7. HICAS Delete

I need to sit down and consider my supporting mods carefully but off the top of my head those would be the ones :)

I'm excited for you man, what boost are you intending to dyno on? What else is done to the car? Please make a video :)

 

Hey Ben! 
Unfortunately the GT2860's have been put on hold until end of Feb/March next year due to the fact that I couldn't resist importing the Mazda RX7 FD. Wrt to supporting mods..
1. Fuel Pump
2. Fuel pump rewire
3. Injectors (Need to research)
4. Mishimoto radiator
5. Alu Hard pipe kit (Intake side)
6. Haltech Plat ECU
7. HICAS Delete
I need to sit down and consider my supporting mods carefully but off the top of my head those would be the ones [emoji4]
I'm excited for you man, what boost are you intending to dyno on? What else is done to the car? Please make a video [emoji4]
 

Yeah those are very similar to my supporting mods, I have my own build thread, however off the top of my head
- 800cc Bosch injectors
- Walbro 450 fuel pump
- Greddy intercooler piping
- Apexi power FC and hand controller
To name a few of the supporting mods for the turbos, for all of them check out my thread!
And not too sure on power after tune, was hoping to get an answer out of you for a ballpark figure [emoji23]
Just now, Bennjamiin said:


Yeah those are very similar to my supporting mods, I have my own build thread, however off the top of my head
- 800cc Bosch injectors
- Walbro 450 fuel pump
- Greddy intercooler piping
- Apexi power FC and hand controller
To name a few of the supporting mods for the turbos, for all of them check out my thread!
And not too sure on power after tune, was hoping to get an answer out of you for a ballpark figure emoji23.png

Haha Sorry! Shouldn't have brought in the RX7 :D

At least when you are done I'll know what to expect :) Will check out your build thread am super interested!

Good luck for later, keep us all posted! P.S. Stock turbos with basic mods saw me 404hp at the flywheel

Here's the run below, dyno sheet at the end of the video :)

 

Haha Sorry! Shouldn't have brought in the RX7 [emoji3]
At least when you are done I'll know what to expect [emoji4] Will check out your build thread am super interested!
Good luck for later, keep us all posted! P.S. Stock turbos with basic mods saw me 404hp at the flywheel
Here's the run below, dyno sheet at the end of the video [emoji4]
 

Hahah no way man enjoy both of the toys [emoji108] I will definitely keep everyone posted! Wow 300kw is definitely not bad on stock turbos I was hoping to make at least 300 with these turbos, may even be able to get closer to 320 looking at that :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...