Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 cold start

Hey guys does anyone here that runs a PFC get a delayed cold start?

By this I mean you have started your car from cold operating temp and usually cold start kicks in almost immediately but for some reason mine can take a few minutes sometimes...

This isn't a issue for me more so it's just annoying I can only assume either it's something to do with the Power FC or perhaps a dodgy cold start valve?

thoughts? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/
Share on other sites

do you mean it idles low initially, and then the idle rises as the car starts to warm up? that's not a problem with PFCs, its a problem with your tune, or air or fuel mechanical system.

it may be running too rich until the water temp rises and pulls fuel out, is it also missing at first?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7777920
Share on other sites

Engine idles at normal idle speed upon starting then sometimes can take a while to kick up to around 1200rpm 

i may be able to check AFR through the hand controller but try to avoid messing around with it in case something goes wrong but I'll be sure to look into it 

not gonna lie I'm pretty pissed about the tuning job that was done had to take the car back to the tuning shop because they failing to tune the AC on and AC off values in the pfc causing the car to stall upon turning the AC on ?

Cheers for the replies 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778019
Share on other sites

You can't see AFR through the hand controller you need a separate wide band to do that.

If your AC is causing the car to stall at idle it's too lean. So most likely your cold start is probably alright and it has a shit tune for idle.

AC puts a fair bit of load on the engine so takes a bit of fiddling to get it to run properly.

Easy to fix if you have the equipment to do so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778084
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the power fc has a self tune mode for idle and ac idle. It's been a while since I've had one but from memory you leave the car idling for around 10m and then turn lights on and ley idle again, then ac on and idle again. If you google, you shall be able to find the exact instructions on how to do that. May or may not fix your issue but definitely worth a shot. You can do it yourself and it's free.


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778090
Share on other sites

well the sad fact is that cold start tuning is a little fiddly compared to the easy stuff (full throttle power runs). Lots of tuners don't give it enough attention and I'd guess that's what happened here.  The good news is it is easily fixed by a competent tuner with a little time, and there's nothing wrong with PFC capabilities...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778111
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...