Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I took the punt on scumtree and bought an r32 ecu chipped for rb25det.

I've received the ecu and it is chipped but checking the numbers they don't line up with an rb20det ecu and the numbers on the case don't match that of the board. So here's some pictures of what I've received...

I think the outside case is r32 gt-r but I don't think that has any relevance to what's in it.

20160930_125904.thumb.jpg.96d4c3f54f9ee220160930_125825.thumb.jpg.1f98122302632e20160930_125722.thumb.jpg.dbda09c714d110

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467038-can-anyone-help-identify-this-ecu/
Share on other sites

Contacted the seller, the outside case is irrelevant just a spare cover he had laying around.

Apparently it is an r32 rb25de ecu and has been chipped to suit an r33 gts25t, which I didn't know was even possible... Just requires the wires from the third and fourth injectors to be swapped.

Has the daughter board fitted so I guess he has no reason lie. It appears to be lacking the knock board like 25t ecu so I probably won't be using the ecu anyway.

Contacted nistune, I think he thought I was a time waster lol, I do genuinely want to get nistune on an ecu. Probably just have join the nistune forum as suggested and get some more specific knowledge on the ecu...

Well, I told you it was an RB25DE ECU.....

And yes it is chipped.....but there is no daughterboard.  All I can see is an EEPROM where the original EEPROM was.

You could quite easily buy a Nistune board to install into it.  The absence of the knock board is not something I've ever thought about before, not having looked into too many NA ECUs (ie, none!), but seeing as the knock detection on these old ECUs is usually pretty shitty, most people just end up putting the same values into both the main and knock maps to stop the ECU going soft all the time.  You're not going to be horribly handicapped by it unless Nistune just refuses to play.

But here's the other side of the coin.  Surely a suitable R32 RB20DET ECU is only 3 beers and a small reptile tank swap.  Just get another one.

refund it.. useless ECU
 

Get a proper ECU or get your stock one modified to accept a Nistune board. I can get it done cheaper than RRP or supply you the board to solder yourself - however I suggest the soldering done by Nistune themselves as the can bench test the ECU prior shipping it back.

Well, I told you it was an RB25DE ECU.....
And yes it is chipped.....but there is no daughterboard.  All I can see is an EEPROM where the original EEPROM was.
You could quite easily buy a Nistune board to install into it.  The absence of the knock board is not something I've ever thought about before, not having looked into too many NA ECUs (ie, none!), but seeing as the knock detection on these old ECUs is usually pretty shitty, most people just end up putting the same values into both the main and knock maps to stop the ECU going soft all the time.  You're not going to be horribly handicapped by it unless Nistune just refuses to play.
But here's the other side of the coin.  Surely a suitable R32 RB20DET ECU is only 3 beers and a small reptile tank swap.  Just get another one.

I wasn't doubting your advice, I also come up with the same result of rb25e before posting this thread, I just wanted opinions without my bias added. I used the wrong terminology when I said daughter board before, I thought that was the cradle thing where the chip sits which definitely has installed.

RB20det ecu's are priced like they are gold plated because as you probably know you can't chip the r33 rb25det ecu's and have to use either rb20det or z32 ecu so demand and price has gone up. These ecu's go for about 250 second hand on eBay out of Japan, 25 years old plus and could be stuffed and then you have fit nistune on top of that which starts to get into the power fc price point. That is I why I bought this ecu, I thought I was getting a bargin but poor man pays twice I guess.

yep.. but I don't get discounts on them.. will just sell as Nistune sells RRP... but you save on shipping if combine...

ECU.. no idea.. needs to be powered up.. can't just use the Internet to tell you if it works or not haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...