Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Instrument Cluster not Working Properly ! (Tacho & Rev)

So i have this problem when i got the car, Its been through a crash before i got it

The Issue with it is that the Rev and Tacho doesn't work sometimes, for example ill be driving and the speedo and rev would be fine and then it would just both drop to 0 and the Kilometers on my dash would just disappear ! only thing that would be working is my Fuel gauge and my oil gauge !  

so i wouldnt know what speed im going or how high my rev is, and then it would just come back to life after driving for a while. Sometimes i start the car and it wouldn't even work.

So most of the time i have to have my GPS Speedo reader on my phone so i can keep track of my speed.

The fuse is fine, i hear people telling me to replace the Instrument Cluster but im worried it would do the same thing because it is working and for some stupid reason instead of my REV being at 1000RPM when its warm and stationary its always at 2000RPM, some faulty shit going on but the engine is running perfectly fine.

People said the Speed sensor might be faulty at the Ground cable, but what do people think it is PLEASE HELP !!

14680555_1307206515958739_6008200701567172495_n.jpg

Read my post in the other thread. And for future reference a fuse will either be blown or not, so if it was a fuse the issue would stay.

Read my other post. I cant be bothered typing it again :) lol

Take it out remove & clean the 3 electrical connectors replace them & check probably a bad connection by the sounds of it. Be gentle as they are just strip connectors just clamped in by the plugs.

Before replacing the cluster have you PM'd the guys above or followed what has been suggested since they're familiar with your cluster's issue?

Have you used an electrical connector spray to dissolve oxidation? Being an intermittent problem it cannot be the fuse anyway. Have you tried this cluster on the same model of a mate?

Easy way to explain it is dry solder/contacts in the PCB of the cluster, specifically the speedo. The soldering of the clusters is usually of poor quality and overtime it's easy for it to go 'dry' and the condition degrade, causing intermittent faults on the cluster. If you aren't the best with a soldering iron/electronics you can get a place to do it for you and test it for like $200 or something and restore it to new condition I guess. To sum up, the electrical circuit on the PCB which gives you the reading for your tacho has a bad connection due to dry solder/contact but the needle still works fine resulting in the obscure rpm's you see in the cluster.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...