Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's very very very expensive and all in Japanese.

It's available at a few tuning places in the Australia, but not for sale, only for use.

You need to be specially trained by Apex in Japan for them to sell it to you.

Datalogit however, is cheap!

Do a search on Laptop Power FC

..and its probably also coded for each individual workshop.

As the numbers are pretty small they can probably keep track of it.. If one copy was to "leak" then it will fairly easly be tracked by serial number back to the workshop it was licensed too. You can imagine they wouldn't be supported / licensed for too much longer after that.

I dont think its copyable..  You need a dongle or something...  and i dont think any crackers could be really bothered with it.

Like everything there are ways around dongles, which is just a socket you stick in 1 of ur input slots to verify you are the user it is registered to (used these all the time with registered versions of AutoCAD)

the dongle's simple to make, and it has been cracked... that's all I'll say. don't ask me how or where to get it as I won't help you.

Translated: I've been able to get a copy and make the fittings, but don't bother asking me for a copy or how to do the attachment as I won't give it to you..

Call a spade a spade.

hehe interpret it how you want, i'm just tryin to save myself the countless PM's I'll get about it, while trying to be as informative as possible.

Maybe once I finish reading this japanese Power FC tuning manual I might try my hand at some amature tuning. I mean if I can program EEPROM's to control servo motors depending on sensors this shouldn't be that hard :devil:

*sigh* i jus wanted to let you guys know that if you look in the right places its not that hard at all to buy yourself a copy... here's a hint... find out the japanese term for "Power FC Communication Software" then google it, somewhere in there is a post on a japanese BBS by a guy selling it for a touch over a grand (and instructions on how to make the dongle).

I'm not trying to rub anyone's nose in it. If I hadn't posted what I did would you have known that it was cracked or that it was available to purchase through dubious sources?

If that's what I get for tryin to help you guys out then I'll just keep shit to myself next time.

Funky if you get a spare 30 seconds email me the program [email protected] and I will crack it myself ;) My flat mate has just about finished his degree in Mechatronics engineering at uni so Im sure we can organise something

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...