Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems with 1995 gtst

MISTIQUE
 Share

Recommended Posts

fordxr Newbie

fordxr

Posted
Posted
thats alright, ill take that on the chin.  

but there is a big difference between expensive and overpriced.

on topic, get a series 2.

:) Well said aybee. :)

So apart from obvious cosmetic difference between the series 1 and 2 (body kit, interior, ECU) was there any faults with the series I over the series II?

The car MISTIQUE is in fact enquiring about is (apparently) a 1995 series 1.5.

So is it worth while spending a little more and looking around for a series II, or are they much the same?

Cheers.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
Posted
Ok the only problem i can say with every R33 is water getting in the rear lights :) I cant get it out :)

Hey K, yeah,

I had the same problem with my 95T with water in the rear right lamp. ended up just pulling the thing completely off the car, re-sealing it with non-acidic silicon (can be cut-out in you next accident), then re-applying while semi dry. Also, running a small bead of silicon around the upper seal (while the lamps is installed) also completely keeps water out. (don't worry about using silicon, as it does less damage to your car than allowing water to 'come in and stay). I bet that on warmer days, the water 'condenses' and appears on your rear windscreen???????

It eventually kills everything in your boot!!!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2). The last S1 has most of the s2 stuff, just cheaper and better looking front...mmmmmm...very subjective thought :Oops: !!!

Anyways.......

SuperSpitMark.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
So apart from obvious cosmetic difference between the series 1 and 2 (body kit, interior, ECU) was there any faults with the series I over the series II?

The car MISTIQUE is in fact enquiring about is (apparently) a 1995 series 1.5.

So is it worth while spending a little more and looking around for a series II, or are they much the same?

Cheers.

The main "fault" with the series 1 was the ECU, which tends to run way too rich when upping the boost. You can easily fix this with an S-AFC, and bring it up to the same power levels as the later ECU. The 95 series 1.5 uses the updated ECU and so doesn't have this problem.

The only other minor fault I can think of is the dash surround and door handle surround is coated in this thin rubber type stuff, which tends to peel fairly easily. This was fixed with the series 2 (not 1.5). But that's really minor.

These cars aren't like Commodores and Falcons which get released with a whole BUNCH of problems, and then they fix half of them with the series 2, and then change models and start off with a whole new bigger batch of problems. This is the reason why I think the VS series 2 Commodore is a less buggy car than a VT series 1.

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
Hey K, yeah,

I had the same problem with my 95T with water in the rear right lamp. ended up just pulling the thing completely off the car, re-sealing it with non-acidic silicon (can be cut-out in you next accident), then re-applying while semi dry. Also, running a small bead of silicon around the upper seal (while the lamps is installed) also completely keeps water out. (don't worry about using silicon, as it does less damage to your car than allowing water to 'come in and stay). I bet that on warmer days, the water 'condenses' and appears on your rear windscreen???????

It eventually kills everything in your boot!!!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2). The  last S1 has most of the s2 stuff, just cheaper and better looking front...mmmmmm...very subjective thought  :Oops: !!!

Anyways.......

SuperSpitMark.

Thx for that, its my Rear Right one too :)

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Fuel consumption will feel bad especially when you jumped from a previous 4-cyl common shopping carts. Heck even my bro complaint about fuel consumption after he replaced his 95 Civic sedan with the new Accord Euro - and his 4-cyl Accord Euro consumption is still LESS than my car!

aybee Experienced

aybee

Posted
Posted
As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2

thats ironic, cause pretty much the only reason i dont like the S1 is cause of the front bar. i think its even got to the stage where i see a stock S1 and cringe at the sight of its front end.

as for the wings, i dont really mind the S1 wing cause its more subtle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Hexi
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Hexi · Posted

      Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...