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Howto - Install Gizzmo Klite knock sensor on an R32 GTR

Since these kits are only ~$300 on ebay (i used seller "globalautoco"), I thought i'd give it a go.

Required;
K-Lite kit including knock sensor
M8 x 50mm bolt (Bunnings has a set of 4 high tensiles for ~$5).

large.knock-bolt.jpg.8c78073352584380a95
Soldering iron, multimeter
Usual socket set, torque wrench etc


1. Remove/move aside the rear part of the wheel arch lining from drivers side front wheel well
2. Push plug end of sensor lead into the drivers side foot well from the engine bay
3. Remove the interior trim under the steering column. Find a +12v source that is one when the engine is on (IGN) connect the red to that via an inline fuse and connect the green wire to earth
4. Connect sensor to gauge
5. Tie all the wiring away nicely
6. Remove the battery, plenum intake piping, dipstick etc to get some room to move under the plenum
7. Find the front factory knock sensor (underneath and to the left of the 2nd cylinder plenum runner, on the top of the block just below the head to block join. Remove the attaching bolt
8. Thread the 50mm bolt through the new sensor, then the factory sensor, then bolt it back onto the block. Torque to ~20Nm. The factory bolt has a 30mm shank, and the new sensor is 20mm high, hence the 50mm bolt. I used a spring washer

large.knock-sensors.jpg.8b24d116636af109
9. Re-install everything and mount the gauge  
10. Start the car and bring car up to temp with normal driving
11. Find somewhere you can safely run the car at 3/4 throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. Dyno would be best
12. Initiate the calibration sequence by holding finger on the gauge directly under ZMO of the Gizzmo print for 3 seconds
13. Release finger and gizzmo will count down 6 seconds (which it shows on the LEDs, indicating its about to enter calibration mode)
14. Run engine at 3/4 load in 3rd or 4th gear from the start of the power band
15. Hold in this state as long as possible until klite has finished analysing. The two analysing steps are;
    1. Search for your engine's noise profile. It displays a sequence of red leds then green leds as it analyses from high to low frequency and will stop the sequence once it has found it.
    2. Sensitivity analysis during which the LEDs will very quickly flash through green to red.
Once these steps are completed the klite will flash the 1 or 2 LEDs indicative of the set frequency, which confirms it has been set. If it fails to setup, it will revert back to the original settings and flash those settings for an extended period.
16. Drive. klite will climb as you come on power, if it detects knock it will flick up erratically.
You can retrieve the peak reading by touching the klite for under 2 seconds

hi mate, what car did you put this on? I fitted one to an R33 gtst and it just wouldn't work, constantly kept recalibrating itself. Gizzmo sent me a new knock sensor, new unit, new loom, confirmed my wiring with them as all good, and still had same issue, ended up having to pull it out. Pity, cos would have been a very handy feature. Although to note i now used a Turbo xs one which has been flawless.

  On 19/12/2016 at 2:35 AM, hardsteppa said:

hi mate, what car did you put this on? I fitted one to an R33 gtst and it just wouldn't work, constantly kept recalibrating itself. Gizzmo sent me a new knock sensor, new unit, new loom, confirmed my wiring with them as all good, and still had same issue, ended up having to pull it out. Pity, cos would have been a very handy feature. Although to note i now used a Turbo xs one which has been flawless.

Expand  

Doh its on my RB26. I've updated it to add the car. Mine seemed to be working after the calibration run. I see a little activity on one LED during normal running, which is what they say to expect, and i expect to see a lot more LEDs go nuts if i get some knock.

  On 20/12/2016 at 2:38 AM, phatmonk said:

With knock sensors listening, like a stethoscope, for a particular frequency (pinging) I understand it doesn't matter where on the block it is bolted to?

Expand  

I'd imagine anywhere on the block would do alright as the vibrations would have to be roughly equivalent all over, since its solid iron. The location of the OEM sensors is apparently the ideal spot, and given that there is already some trouble distinguishing knock noise from other noise using the best spot it probably worthwhile.

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