Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's my situation.

I had to put a new clutch in my 33 gtst.

I have the front of the car on stands and the back on the ground. New clutch is in and alligned with tool supplied. I have a trolley jack at the front of the box and rear of the box.

As I'm trying to get the input shaft inside the clutch I'm just missing out (half of the input shaft). I can't go up with the box anymore cause it's hitting the tunnel (if I went up the input shaft would be in). I have rotated the box up so the stater part is towards the bonnet.

Anyone have any tricks of the trade or done this before to give some ideas?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468312-refit-gearbox-help/
Share on other sites

Do you have the front of the engine jacked up so the back is lowered? This helps with angle. Should allow you the room you need to get it in. If I'm having troubles I get someone to get inside the car and throw a rope or tie down around the back of the box and then remove the jack from the back of the box and get the person with the rope to adjust the angle as needed while you manhandle the box from below. It should go in the right side up. Good luck.


Don't forget to disconnect the exhaust or it will be trying to hold the engine straight. And drop the front subframe bolts down so the engine can tip back further. The input shaft can only ever go in when it is straight to the crank

Pig of a job with one person on the ground....going to need lots of patience



I havnt tried Adam. I plan to give it another crack tomorrow.

Cool, as stated above, patience is required. Everything has to be 100% lined up for it to go in and then it will pretty much just fall into place. If it won't go, step away for a while, clear your head and try again later.

Cool, as stated above, patience is required. Everything has to be 100% lined up for it to go in and then it will pretty much just fall into place. If it won't go, step away for a while, clear your head and try again later.


Where did you jack the motor up from exactly?
I put a block of wood under the front lip of the sump and jacked it from there.


I jacked the front of the motor up, input shaft went straight in!!!! (f**k yeah)
Then i was having trouble getting the splines to line up so I took the jack out of the motor and she went straight in!!

Thanks for your help!!!!!! (I'm so relieved)
  • Like 2


I jacked the front of the motor up, input shaft went straight in!!!! (f**k yeah)
Then i was having trouble getting the splines to line up so I took the jack out of the motor and she went straight in!!

Thanks for your help!!!!!! (I'm so relieved)

No probs mate, it's a great feeling when it finally goes in. Congrats on completing one of the worse diy jobs on your car. Enjoy the new clutch[emoji106]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...