Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Penrite 10w-50 vs 10 tenths?

Hi all,

Received a bottle of Penrite HPR 10W-50.  Reading posts and The Goods On Oils it seems the consensus is Penrite 10W-40 10 Tenths.  It is for an R33 GTR.

For the uneducated (me), I'd say the HPR 10W-50 is fine.  Before dumping the unknown oil in there, what are people's thoughts on the HPR 10W-50?

Cheers!

Edited by phatmonk
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468794-penrite-10w-50-vs-10-tenths/
Share on other sites

Motul all the way for me but every car is different. Since you have the oil (one bottle? - what's that in litres>) just chuck it in and try it - your motor won't seize up  - just monitor heat, oil pressure etc and see how you go.


Go read the 200 pages of the dedicated oils thread here on sau.

It's about 330 pages. I had a look, TLDR it all... It's a forum; I used search, looked at the stickies and asked a question. That's what happens, right? Maybe I'm simpler than you, sorry.

HRP10 is a 10W-40 oil that has some additives that makes it a '50' when hot.

Racing 10 (10Tenths) is a full syn oil (more expensive, on par with Royal Purple, Motul Chrono, etc, group 5 oil I believe?)

Either will be fine. The Racing 10 has better shear properties at high temps/pressures. So if your engine cops some track work, I'd use that over HPR. HPR is fine for street driving.

  • Like 1

The huge oil thread has the answer, but it can take quite a while to trawl through it. You'll learn heaps though, people like to get technical around here (which is a good thing). Now go read the RB oil control thread :P .

Oh and on my GT-R, standard engine/boost/no oil cooler, I ran Racing 10 (10W-40) and Premium 5 (5W-60) on the track with no noticeable difference (going off engine noise and standard oil pressure gauge, car ran hot because I didn't flush the cooling system). Back in the early days I ran HPR10 for street duties and it was fine.

My answer was an actual answer. But I have used 15W-50 in my car for years and it has been fine. 40+ degree drift days at QR and I beat my engine harder than an unwanted red headed stepchild and it has never let me down. No oil cooler either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jax Tyres this Monday morning. Front lifted 15mm Back lifted 12mm Quote1, $175 per tyre + wheel alignment. Quote2, $660 inc wheel alignment. paid $298 for the lot.  
    • Finally have an update on this  Rack came in this week so I did a test fit. You do need the S chassis bushings since the rack is 5mm thinner than the R33 rack. The main issue I foresaw and ran into was one of the hardlines not lining up properly with there it's meant to on the rack. After some gentle coercing and bending very slightly, I managed to get it to fit without any kinks and keeping the hardline pretty much in all of the factory mounting positions. I did have to unbolt all of the soft mounts to move the line around so I could snake it out and bend it safely but it looks good to me for now. I'll update when the rack is fully bolted in and functioning.  
    • I hear this thread needs an update following its adventures last Wednesday!
    • What are you thinking makes a sequential shit to drive on the street? About the ONLY thing I can think of, is if you're wanting to be able to roll up to lights in third or second and pop it straight into neutral, or you want to come down two or three gears, say out of 5th and back to second, but they shift quick enough it doesn't really matter
    • I'm not a drag racing guy, but that was a good watch. Didn't Ibrahim's car have some cooch! But the big question is....WTF is with so many of them running without seatbelts!
×
×
  • Create New...