Jump to content
SAU Community

Tein HA Coilover Knock/Pillow Ball Issue

MikeR34GTT
 Share

Recommended Posts

MikeR34GTT Collaborator

MikeR34GTT

Posted
Posted
Tein HA Coilover Knock/Pillow Ball Issue

Hello experts,

This is a very much 'get what you pay for' type scenario, but I'm hoping some of you can help me salvage the situation as I've already learned from the mistake.

I was at a crossroads when looking to upgrade the suspension of my GTT (springs+shocks or coilovers). Eventually, I went for coilovers although my budget was thin. I managed to track down a set of Tein HA's for the GTT for $700 supposedly in mint condition, which I viewed before purchase, looking for knocks, thread wear, oil leaks etc. All looked well but I'm no pro.

I'd recently had them professionally checked & installed at my local shop and towards the end of the install, advised me that 'the pillowball mounts are f&%^$' and 'there was some play so I'll get alot of knocking' - and he was correct, although all 4 coilovers make the knock noise during travel. They'd also lowered quite a bit, but not over the top crazy.

These guys are now 'researching' what they can do about the knock, as am I, and i'm starting to doubt if they actually know what the issue is, or even if all four knocks are related to a bad install or they are putting this issue in the too-hard-basket.

Summarising, as the car is a daily, is there a way to convert the pillowball upper mount to rubber to rectify the knock (and maybe make the ride smoother, it's my daily)? I'd suggested this today when I went back to the shop and the dude said 'I dont see why not' with no further response. My options look a little like this:

  • Buy new pillowball upper mounts @ $150 per stick
  • Look into rubber upper mounts (can these be purchased as a universal thing, or even pulled from my OEM ones?)
  • Take the car elsewhere for a second opinion
  • Refit OEM and sell the Tein HA's (worst case - I'm happy with these apart from the knocks - If rubber mounts, I think ride quality may improve also)

Any advice at this point is a plus as I'm foreign to suspension and am taking the word of my local shop in good faith..... because I'm paying them.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Wow.  I feel like quoting myself from your other thread!  Bad luck man.

Contact someone like MCA and see what they say about modding the tops to have rubbers.  I would definitely be looking for a 2nd opinion on both that aspect and the question on whether the noise is originating at the tops or in the damper itself.

Smittyr333 Rookie

Smittyr333

Posted
Posted

Yeah the pillow balls will be shagged. I had the same noise when i got my car. I got my front ones rebuilt by Fulcrum (Tein dealer) but i haven't done the back ones and still have the knock. Ill be looking around for a set of pillow ball mounts but would like to go rubber too

MikeR34GTT Collaborator

MikeR34GTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Wow.  I feel like quoting myself from your other thread!  Bad luck man.

Contact someone like MCA and see what they say about modding the tops to have rubbers.  I would definitely be looking for a 2nd opinion on both that aspect and the question on whether the noise is originating at the tops or in the damper itself.

Sorry who's MCA? Basically what I'm looking to do, just don't know enough about it ):

3 hours ago, Smittyr333 said:

Yeah the pillow balls will be shagged. I had the same noise when i got my car. I got my front ones rebuilt by Fulcrum (Tein dealer) but i haven't done the back ones and still have the knock. Ill be looking around for a set of pillow ball mounts but would like to go rubber too

Sounds like we're in the same boat my friend. How much did your rebuilds cost for the fronts? Not cheap I'm guessing. If I have a win with a rubber top mount conversion I'll let you know!

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The M stands for Murray.  The C stands for Coote.  Famous name.  5s google for MCA and suspension would have found you their website and about 10000 recent threads on here bigging them up.  In fact you wouldn't even have to finish typing it into google!

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

I have some strut tops from isc performance.  They are rubber where others are bearings.  They don't knock and will last you.  You will probably need to ask as they don't show therm on their site.  But check your shock shaft diameter and Spring inside diameter to make sure they fit.

 

I am on a shit iPad so can't figure out to paste a link. This may work.

Or not.  Search for that thread and have a read.

Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted

The pillowballs themselves are pretty much the same across the TEIN range, you should even be able to buy genuine replacement TEIN pillowballs from Fulcrum and swap them out, have done a number of times. So as long as it's just that part, you should be fine :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • albyz34gt
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear Sway Bar Busshings - Holden Astra TS (2002)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...