Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

M35 Stagea with Mods

Looking to part with my M35, old NSW plates were OM350 and the vehicle is very well known. Main reason for sale is I'm just not driving her, between my work car and my bike she just doesnt get the attention she needs.

Up for $15500 ONO, can include a few extras (matching black leather backseat, works bell carbon paddle shifters, freeway dolphin eyelids/tail light covers) at extra charge, feel free to throw me any offers however lowballs will be ignored.

--Engine and Drivetrain--


Tien Coilovers

Whiteline sway bars front and rear

Daleo Front brace and OX motorsports rear brace

350Z Brembo brakes front and rear

350Z Rear LSD with matching ration PNM35 front diff

Shift Kitted auto

Engine oil cooler and Power steering cooler

Blitz FMIC

Scottys Customs dump and front pipe

Blitz nur spec 3" exhaust

Plenum spacer

Impul tuned ECU

Greddy Emanage Ultimate ECU (Not installed)

Bosch 1000CC injectors (Not Installed)

Walbro E85 compatible fuel pump (Not installed)


--Interior--


R35 GTR seats

Full Alpine sound system including Navigation

Decked out with gauges (Factory triple gauge cluster moved to factory DVD player location) as well as Engine oil temp, Engine oil pressure, Trans temp, and Boost, along with an android tabled installed in place of the factory TV screen.

HKS OB link for android devices

Full factory interior mats


--Exterior--

Factory Dayz Body kit (very rare kit. Only a handful of cars known to be in aus with this body kit)

Unknow rear wing (Closest I can find online is by a company called pond sports)

Weds Kranze Bazreia 19" wheels with 245/40/19 Nitto Invos. Very nice fitment all round, without being too over the top and undrivable

Fresh repaint in Jan 2016 (Excluding roof)

Has had a minor carpark scuff on the passerger side front bumper/guard since

Enthusiast owned, serviced every 5000km, very healthy car.


Has been my work horse so there are a few little scuffs and things in the luggage area.


Do have all of the standard parts except for wheels and seats. Can remove/not include parts to lower the costs, lowballs however will be ignored.



13308459_1108077389235140_75815944596290
12496223_10153555521132946_750127567357113220661_548031732034408_184223658047464

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469813-m35-stagea-with-mods/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...