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Can't found whats wrong with my RB

1337Htune
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1337Htune Rookie

1337Htune

Posted
Posted (edited)

Can't found whats wrong with my RB

Hi !

First of all, sorry for my bad English, i'm French.

Try to explain the more accurate.

 

Car is 1993 R32 GTS-T on stock RB20DET.

Just have decat, catback and HKS Air filter.

BUT, i can't check inside the ECU (Left door stuck closed)

 

The problem:

Engine cut and go randomly but more to more often.

Its happen really more when car is hot but doing sometime when cold.

I can more run good when cold, and start problem after ~10kms

 

Sounds like all the ignition is off, and on, and off...
Like OK for 4 sec and 1 sec off, etc..  etc..

Sometime back good for 30 sec and start going wrong again.

Really random :/ 

If i run on really low demand on the car, i can up to 110km/h for ~15kms before the problem

 

I try an other CAS, same thing.

 

Don't know if its relative to this problem but:

I have the first coil dead last week.

I replace (By an old one) it and go back on 6.

Today, the first coil is again dead.

 

 

Hope you have idea of whats wrong :/

PS: I just order the Nissan Consult cable, maybe it help me to check TPS Sensor or other things.

 

Sounds like theses problems:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=469254

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/149846-ignition-spark-keeps-briefly-cutting-out-pls-hlp.html

 

Edited by 1337Htune
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470355-cant-found-whats-wrong-with-my-rb/
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R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

Les coupures apparaissent aussi quand tu reste sous les 2000 rpm ?

C'est bien des coupures franches et pas des ratés d'allumage ?

Ca arrive que quand tu charge ou même en roulant a vitesse stabilisée ?

 

J'ai eu un problème de prise de soudure des fils de MAF sur la mienne après avoir installé le maf de Z32. Exactement comme toi, OK à froid et dès que ça chauffait un peu ça coupait/revenait. Si je restait sous les 2000 aucune coupure. Mais AFR à 10.

Regarde ta prise de maf et si le faisceau n'est pas abimé.

 

Le problème de la 1ère bobine qui crame 2 fois coup sur coup par contre j'ai jamais eu. Après t'as ramplacé une vieille bobines par une autre vieille bobine. Peut-être une simple coincidence que la seconde crame comme la première.

 

Tu as quoi comme bougies actuellement, gappées à combien, et combien elles ont de bornes.

La caisse est stock et en bon état ou elle à été bricolée de partout ? Particulièrement le faisceau, il est dans quel état ?

Pas d'alarme de posée ou un truc dans le genre ? Turbo timer ?

T'es d'ou exactement ?

 

Better translation :

Hi all, I need help to sort a problem on my RB20DET. The engine is pretty much stock : no cat, aftermarket catback and HKS air filter.

The engine is cutting out randomly while driving. It happens more and more frequently especially when the engine is hot. It can drive fine when cold but after 10km or so the cutting begins. If i drive smoothly and at low load I can reach 110 km/h for about 15 km before the problem appears.

 

Things that has already been done :

An other CAS has been tried but no change.

The coilpack on cyl n°1 died last week. I replaced it with an other used one and it died again today.

 

I can't have access to the ECU, the left door is shut closed so I can't remove the panel that protect the ECU.

/ Better translation.

 

I asked if it was really the engine cutting or if it was some misfires, it's description lead toward really to engine cutting rather than misfires. I also asked which sparks plugs it has, the gap, how many km they have, if it has an alarm or a turbo timer that could have been badly wired, the shape of the engine wiring.

I also told him to check the MAF plug and wire to sse if there is no damage that could explain the cuts when running above 2000rpm.

1337Htune Rookie

1337Htune

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Quote

 

Je vais essayer de rien oublier:

Oui ca me l'a deja fait sous les 2000rpm

Oui coupure totale, pas des raté.
Stabilisé ou en charge ca change rien.

J'ai quand même la sensation que si je cherche a tirer dessus, ca coupe moins. Mais pas sur au point de prendre ca comme paramètre pour la panne.

 

Bougies stock, NGK Neuves. Ca me le faisait avant et apres avoir changer les bougies.

Oui stock globalement.

Il y avais des mano greddy cablé n'importe comment sur le poste pour les alims mais j'ai tout retiré, aucun changement.

Pas d'alarme

 

Je suis du 09 au sud de Toulouse

 

Yes i have the problem under 2k rpm too.

All goes off, not misfire.

On boost or not, no change.

 

Stock brand new NGK, got the problem before and after change them.

Car have greddy gauge badly wired on the radio but remove them.

No Alarm

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

Si ça le fait aussi sous les 2000 c'est plus génant, le MAF ou son faisceau ne serait pas en cause du coup.

Je sèche un peu, mis à part un problème de 12v qui se coupe genre le relais d'alim de l'ECU qui coupe l'ECU, le faisceau qui va au CAS abimé...

Un pote à eu un truc dans le genre dans sa sunny swappée CA18DET mais c'était le connecteur du faisceau qui va sur l'ECU qui était pas assez serré, la caisse coupait de temps en temps totalement, tu filait un coup de latte au niveau de l'ECU et ça repartait, des fois avec un retour de flammes de la mort mais ça repartait. Toi ça coupe et ça reviens comme si de rien était j'ai l'impression.

Commence par vérifier les cables/la prise au niveau du CAS.

Tu as David qui possède DGmotorsport dans ton coin, ou Jérôme qui y bossait avant et qui est à WG british racing maintenant qui pourrait jeter un oeil.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It's going to be heat sensitive electronics.  Coil packs, ignitor, CAS, AFM are the leading items in the engine bay that will do it.  The other thing is simply the loom plugs for all these things.  They can get old and brittle, with oxidation on the contacts.  Get them warm and things move or the resistance changes and they stop working.

The other leading possibility is the fuel pump.  Could be running OK to start with but dying off as it warms up.

Any decent mechanic should be able to help fault find this stuff.  You may need some parts for swaptronics though.

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