Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 7 years later...
On 5/28/2017 at 8:32 PM, GTSBoy said:

Look.  The actuator doesn't matter a shit.  They're both 5 psi items.  What matters is that your boost source is coming from somewhere wrong.  The fact that there is no nipple to connect the boost control to on the intercooler pipework IS THE PROBLEM.  Trace the connection back to where it comes from.  if you cannot see/prove that it is 100% from upstream the throttle, with no solenoid valves or check valves or anything else in the way, then fix it.  This will mean PUTTING A NIPPLE ONTO THE PIPEWORK.  Which would be 100% what the doofus who installed it all should have done, and apparently didn't.

How important is having a nipple? If your car overboosts on X psi (let's say we've boosted the car) if we don't have a nipple but have a boost controller do we run the risk of overboosting? I thought the controller controls that.

The controller works by measuring your current boost from a boost source. It *has* to be connected to a source of boost.

Without this, it cannot function. You cannot boost a car without this either. It is a requirement to have a boost source for a boost controller to function. Boost controllers function by sensing a level of boost, and diverting a portion of that air pressure away from the wastegate.

So your charge piping may be at 25psi, but as far as your wastegate knows, it is being fed 15psi, where the spring starts to open. This is how your engine gets fed 25psi as opposed to 15psi which is known as 'spring pressure' or 'gate pressure'.

If you get your source from the turbo housing, or before the intercooler, you will see less boost in your manifold, because the controller is going to be using that pre-cooled, pre-pressure lost source as it's source of truth.

To avoid this, you get a source after your intercooler has done it's thing, but it HAS to be before the throttle body, which is why people almost universally use a nipple on the charge piping, before the throttle body. You do not want your boost source to be seeing vacuum inside the manifold itself, this is to avoid your boost controller trying to do much when it sees your "boost" at a negative value.

Like most things car tuning, you want the tuning to be doing as little as possible, for maximum accuracy.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

The controller works by measuring your current boost from a boost source. It *has* to be connected to a source of boost.

Without this, it cannot function. You cannot boost a car without this either. It is a requirement to have a boost source for a boost controller to function. Boost controllers function by sensing a level of boost, and diverting a portion of that air pressure away from the wastegate.

So your charge piping may be at 25psi, but as far as your wastegate knows, it is being fed 15psi, where the spring starts to open. This is how your engine gets fed 25psi as opposed to 15psi which is known as 'spring pressure' or 'gate pressure'.

If you get your source from the turbo housing, or before the intercooler, you will see less boost in your manifold, because the controller is going to be using that pre-cooled, pre-pressure lost source as it's source of truth.

To avoid this, you get a source after your intercooler has done it's thing, but it HAS to be before the throttle body, which is why people almost universally use a nipple on the charge piping, before the throttle body. You do not want your boost source to be seeing vacuum inside the manifold itself, this is to avoid your boost controller trying to do much when it sees your "boost" at a negative value.

Like most things car tuning, you want the tuning to be doing as little as possible, for maximum accuracy.

Ah right thanks

Edited by silviaz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...