Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Precision 6466 turbo kit ,exhaust system , radiator plus more

Precision 6466 turbo kit for sale 6466 with 1.15 rear housing ,6boost exhaust manifold ,chinese wastegate ,screamer pipe and vband dump pipe included not ceramic coated less then 3000ks $3500 

Direct twin plate clutch less then 3000kms $1000

Silver braided fuel lines front -8 to back -6 with aeroflow surge tank with two 044s $1000 

Gtr plenum with large single hale racing throttle body ,deleted itbs with nitto gaskets and alloy intercooler pipes for both sides which suit this plenum $500

Id2000 injectors used for less then 3000kms with fuel rail $500 

R32 gtr 3 1/4 or 1/2 inch exhaust system $500

R32 gtr splitfire coilpacks unknown condition with coilpack harness $300 

R32 33 fenix alloy radiator with thermo fans $350

R32 gtr gearbox had just started going into 4th funny like thr synchro is on its way out $250 no transfer case $250 

R34 gtr standard powdercoated strut brace $150

R32 gtr standard strut brace $100 

R32 gtr standard intercooler $100 

Tig welded catch can $100 

Aeromotive fuel pressue reg $100 

 

IMG_1269.JPG

IMG_1270.JPG

IMG_1271.JPG

IMG_1272.JPG

IMG_1273.JPG

IMG_1274.JPG

IMG_1275.JPG

IMG_1276.JPG

IMG_1277.JPG

IMG_1278.JPG

IMG_1279.JPG

IMG_1280.JPG

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...