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26 minutes ago, djr81 said:

It is not necessarily the quality of the damper that allows the spring rate to be changed.  The "optimal" damping rate is proportional to the square of the spring rate.  What does that mean in actual meaningful terms?  If you double the spring rate you need to change the damping rate by 41%. So for a 10% spring rate the damping rate changed by 5%.  For any given bump/transient condition are the damping rates within 5% of what may be optimal. No. Nor will they ever be.  So change your spring rates as much as you like up to +/- 40 to 50% of the original rate (On the assumption you started near where you should be)

Um....that's why good dampers have lots of multi-rate valve stacks inside, so that they can handle a range of piston rates.  So if a non-adjustable damper like a Bilstein can handle a >15% change in spring rate without breaking a sweat, then an adjustable damper should shit it in.  And if it can't then you'd throw it in the bin.  That's all I'm saying.

I would have thought the obvious problem to the understeer was the front sway bar was harder than the rear (stock S14)?  Or am I missing something, is an S14 bar hard or even softer than stock R33?  surely it is much softer than whatever diameter whiteline you have - consider diameter^4 for rate?  Obviously you first need to put a bit more pressure in the tyres.  And you can quite easily try bit more pressure in the rear than front ~say 3psi to try and dial out understeer.  

After that put on a stock front bar.   Or put on a whiteline rear bar on (but I understand the advice from MCA say harder bars don't provide more grip > because they tune what they sell with stock sway bars). 

Edited by simpletool

I had a 32R rear swaybar and the car was worse, putting the s14 bar in was an improvement. 

I have the whiteline on its softest setting, but I'm going to swap it out for a stock s13 bar for the next track day (July 9th) up the air pressures and do nothing else. 

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