Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

26 minutes ago, djr81 said:

It is not necessarily the quality of the damper that allows the spring rate to be changed.  The "optimal" damping rate is proportional to the square of the spring rate.  What does that mean in actual meaningful terms?  If you double the spring rate you need to change the damping rate by 41%. So for a 10% spring rate the damping rate changed by 5%.  For any given bump/transient condition are the damping rates within 5% of what may be optimal. No. Nor will they ever be.  So change your spring rates as much as you like up to +/- 40 to 50% of the original rate (On the assumption you started near where you should be)

Um....that's why good dampers have lots of multi-rate valve stacks inside, so that they can handle a range of piston rates.  So if a non-adjustable damper like a Bilstein can handle a >15% change in spring rate without breaking a sweat, then an adjustable damper should shit it in.  And if it can't then you'd throw it in the bin.  That's all I'm saying.

I would have thought the obvious problem to the understeer was the front sway bar was harder than the rear (stock S14)?  Or am I missing something, is an S14 bar hard or even softer than stock R33?  surely it is much softer than whatever diameter whiteline you have - consider diameter^4 for rate?  Obviously you first need to put a bit more pressure in the tyres.  And you can quite easily try bit more pressure in the rear than front ~say 3psi to try and dial out understeer.  

After that put on a stock front bar.   Or put on a whiteline rear bar on (but I understand the advice from MCA say harder bars don't provide more grip > because they tune what they sell with stock sway bars). 

Edited by simpletool

I had a 32R rear swaybar and the car was worse, putting the s14 bar in was an improvement. 

I have the whiteline on its softest setting, but I'm going to swap it out for a stock s13 bar for the next track day (July 9th) up the air pressures and do nothing else. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...