Jump to content
SAU Community

1998 R33 GTST Series 2 40th Anniversary

YawRate
 Share

Recommended Posts

YawRate Explorer

YawRate

Posted
Posted

1998 R33 GTST Series 2 40th Anniversary

 

Unfortunately the time has come to sell my R33. It has been a reliable daily drive for the last 8 years and has never let me down, hopefully I can find a new owner that will continue to look after it moving forward. The basics: 

  • May 1998 build, imported in 2005
  • 192,xxx kms
  • Located in Canberra
  • $9,600

The driveline is fairly stock, it’s never been seen a track, and for what it’s worth I drive like grandma. It has never used any oil, never fouled a spark plug, never missed a cold start, etc. It's even fairly fuel efficient (10L/per 100kms if you drive like me haha):

  • OEM Turbo
  • OEM ECU
  • OEM R34 SMIC
  • Full turbo back exhaust, consisting of:
    • Stainless bellmouth front/dump pipe
    • 100CPI Cat
    • Trust Power Extreme II Catback- with the centre muffler deleted... I'm biased but it sounds excellent
  • Apexi SAFC Neo- Tuned making 197rwkW at 0.8bar with a Turbosmart boost tee
  • Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch
  • Splitfire Coilpacks
  • Engine oil has been changed every 5,000kms without fail
  • The gearbox and diff oil was last changed 25,000kms ago

Other parts on the car of interest:

  • Tein Street Advance Coilovers
  • DBA 4000 Brake Rotors
  • Rota wheels 18x9.5+27 all round
  • Federal tyres, 235 front and 265 rear
  • Apexi Pod Filter- In an enclosure
  • OEM 4 door front fog/indicator lights
  • OEM GTR rear wing
  • Apexi RSM with the G-sensor
  • Oil pressure, Oil temperature, Boost pressure, and Water temperature gauges

Having owned the car for so long, just about every serviceable component has been replaced during my ownership. So every vacuum and coolant line in the engine bay, every gasket, the thermostat, the thermostat housing, the radiator, all the tie rods, the rear main seal, the clutch slave cylinder, etc. etc. etc. If I was keeping it, the control arm bushes would be next, and so on, and so on.... My point is, this has never been a heavily modified car, the priority has always been bullet proof reliability for daily driving. In that regard I could not fault the car, ever.

Being a daily driven car, it has to be said, this is definitely not a concourse condition car. There are paint defects, and it has experienced a few inconsiderate people in car parks over the years. What I can say however is that all the paint, and all the clear coat is intact, so it still cleans up fine. Hopefully this is demonstrated in the below pictures.

 There are a few bad points with the car, which I’m happy to disclose up front:

  • The tacho has failed. I’ve been hesitant to replace the whole cluster as its original to the car, and given how many imports have been wound back, I don’t want to be seen as doing anything dodgy. I use the Apexi RSM for a tacho if required.
  • The drivers seat bolster is ripped
  • All the tyres are camber worn on the inside edges
  • The registration expires in around a month. Although I’m happy to discuss selling it with a pink slip with any prospective buyers

 Hopefully I can find somebody who is passionate about these cars, who is aware of how this R33 GTST differs from the average example you see on the street. 

I’m happy to answer any questions that people have, please post them below or send me a PM. Thanks for reading.

 

IMG_6052.thumb.jpg.f0961bc8951b6d5513023eda4321e774.jpg

IMG_6019.thumb.jpg.92c860c10dbca08b82fc5167a32050b1.jpg

IMG_6046.thumb.jpg.d30887d2aba74ebe8ccb3db8ae6f76a9.jpg

IMG_6040.thumb.jpg.dd88bb050c95b13f5abb87b89bcf3947.jpg

IMG_6054.thumb.jpg.6e2b114628bc122252c971dd7fcae495.jpg

IMG_6859-HDR-3.thumb.jpg.6601c50367eb7cd15d9f612d177d746b.jpg

IMG_7083.thumb.jpg.65f8bc43853cf9ae3d104c83c5665801.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • Kinkstaah
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • MBS206
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...