Jump to content
SAU Community

Sick of killing stock injectors for NO GOOD REASON. Details inside and please recommend a drop in replacement that wont break.


Recommended Posts

You stated in your original post how the car was running great for a period of 10 months until you added the remainder of the e85 treatment. I still cant comprehend why anyone would add that additive to a car thats not tuned on e85 even if it doesn't have a warning label stating not to use on unleaded cars. Why didnt you just buy the nulon unleaded fuel treatment? It's almost like running diesel fuel in an unleaded car (probably a bit of an extreme example but you get the idea). 

Yes, I think, despite apparent clear link to the fuel treatment, the electrical death of injectors cannot be attributed to the liquid flowing inside them.  The common cause of killing multiple sets of injectors on the same car has to be on the electrical side.

  • Like 1

Mine is an S2 so no dropping resistor on the back of the coil cover .

I would think that electrical issues are a definite possibility here . Can you check that resistor or find some mod to remove it from the equation ?

Just a thought cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...