Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

M35 rough idle / shudder

Hi,

I've recenly had problems with the car and would like to know if it sounds familiar.

Symtoms :

- Rough idle : the car does not stall but you can definitely feel a  shudder 

- Shudder also present when driving, especially around 2000-2500 rpm

Coming from the engine 100%, it is less noticeable once the turbo kicks in but there is a slight power loss too. 

Problem has increased in intensity when I was driving it home.

If someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Mechanical skills close to null, if someone around Sydney is keen to have a look at it, I'd obviously pay for your time, but I can of course try a few things on my end too.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471304-m35-rough-idle-shudder/
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, valf said:

M35 rough idle / shudder

Hi,

I've recenly had problems with the car and would like to know if it sounds familiar.

Symtoms :

- Rough idle : the car does not stall but you can definitely feel a  shudder 

- Shudder also present when driving, especially around 2000-2500 rpm

Coming from the engine 100%, it is less noticeable once the turbo kicks in but there is a slight power loss too. 

Problem has increased in intensity when I was driving it home.

If someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Mechanical skills close to null, if someone around Sydney is keen to have a look at it, I'd obviously pay for your time, but I can of course try a few things on my end too.

Cheers!

Contact m35stagea on this forum, he can help scan your car for fault codes.

 

1 minute ago, West said:

Contact m35stagea on this forum, he can help scan your car for fault codes.

 

Ok, will do thanks!

One more thing is that there is no lights on on the dash. No engine light nothing. Not sure if the diag will show something if engine light isn't even coming up :/

1 minute ago, valf said:

Ok, will do thanks!

One more thing is that there is no lights on on the dash. No engine light nothing. Not sure if the diag will show something if engine light isn't even coming up :/

Not sure but no hurt trying right? 

This guy also know a fair bit about M35, or Scotty on this forum as well but since you're in Sydney and m35stagea is also in sydney.

On 22/07/2017 at 5:54 PM, valf said:

Do you have a link for the oem coil packs / spark plugs? 

I'll change those and head over to m35stagea's place to give the car a scan. 

Thanks for the help! 

OEM are like $850. I got my NGK ones from Veales for $600. Spark plugs you can get from Super cheap for $120

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Finally received the coil packs yesterday,

Started changing it today, went quite well on the passenger side (remember, I've close to no mechanical experience).

I don't know where to start on the driver side though because the middle coil is hardly accessible.

Can someone tell me how to proceed ?

On the bright side, I've started the car and it runs perfect so I got lucky, the faulty one was one of the first 3 I swapped :)

All done, thanks everyone! Glad I did it myself, will go to bed less stupid than I was when I woke up [emoji4]

Give yourself a pat on the back. Great to see people having a go. DIY is the way to go for most of these minor little odd jobs[emoji106]
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...