Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Helmet + Hans Packages

Been looking at Hans devices as I'm driving more aggressively, run a half cage, fixed back seat, and harness. I do use a little neck support donut, but after seeing crash test footage about how the head just moves forward while everything else stays put, a HANS makes a lot of sense. 

My current helmet is just a Sparx basic rthing, not HANS compatible so I'd need a new helmet and ebay is running various deals at the moment. 

This can be had for $850ish delivered. 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131954318581?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

Anyone got experience with Racelid helmets or that particular HANS model? 

I'm also not sure which model in terms of degrees, I can measure this, but any advice on that front is appreciated. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471397-helmet-hans-packages/
Share on other sites

I've also been thinking that I should have a Hans device & helmet to suit, for the same reasons. I haven't done any research, but your post will prompt me to. I think I'd prefer an open face helmet for in the car - have been using my bike Shoei to date. I usually leave the visor off.

Having bought too many bike helmets in my lifetime, I do know that I need to try them on before committing - the same size in different brands fit differently. I can only assume that car helmets are the same.

I did buy some suspension bits from that Ebay seller last week, and had no issues - they were as described, packed well & arrived in a couple of days.

I have that model racelid minus the duck bill. Fairly decent. I found the visor lock tabs to be a bit poorly designed. Tinted/colour visor options are also limited. 

Definately go try them on though. I had a bit of trouble finding a comfortable car helmet before getting this. 

No experience with HANS though

Personally I wouldn't buy a helmet I couldn't try on. Proper fit matters for comfort and safety.  

I stuck with a basic bike helmet for years until the category required us to have HANS. I didn't want to move to one due to cost and an (incorrect) perception that it would be uncomfortable and restrictive.  Of course you also need a 4+ point harness, and make sure that the width of your HANS shoulders are the same width as your belts, they often are not.

  • Like 1

I have 4pt Velo harness, 72mm strap which is just under 3".

I'll check the Hans.

I'll ask the local kart and bike shops, my best guess isni could maybe try a Bell helmet.

I've got a young family and I'm driving harder now, making mistakes, sideways, offs etc so I just want that security.

Also either add on to or replace the cage, it's one of Brad's (ProFab) bolt in, welded half cage.

Yes and no.

YouTube the clip of the rally driver who puts his car into a ditch at low speed and almost knocks himself out (I will post tomorrow if you can't find it).

His nav had a Hans on, no issues for him/her.

You also hit the nail on the head. I would like to do either/and PI, EC/Bathurst either in the Silvia or the GTR.

As mentioned earlier, I have a family I'd like to come home to, and we're not talking big money in terms of "insurance".

Plus, have you seen how shitfully I drive :D

I spent double what you are looking to spend however im in open cockpit.
Just like with race suits the more you spend the better quality and more comfortable it gets.

Like Duncan said above, a helmet + suit are 2 things you just can't buy online... have to try on in person before paying for it as all brands/models/sizes are different.

All good points, I've seen enough cars end up in walls at my trackdays to be making this a priority.

Luckily Revolution Racegear have the same package for sale and there's one around the corner, hopefully it's in stock. Also thinking of going 6 point harness instead of the 4 point i currently have as tightening the shoulder straps hikes up the waist strap.

 

ah cool, they have the exact same kit for $879, much for muchness really, if they have it in store and fits well i'll support them. There's also a different closed faced for $829 and open faced option for $769

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/?PCID=10807&PSO=245&PSID=SPECIAL&PSV=Primary&CDO=

36 minutes ago, GTofuS-T said:

ah cool, they have the exact same kit for $879, much for muchness really, if they have it in store and fits well i'll support them. There's also a different closed faced for $829 and open faced option for $769

I have to drive past RRG in Adelaide this morning - I should get my arse in there and have a look. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...