Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25de+t reliability if done correctly r33 s1

ThirtyFree
 Share

Recommended Posts

ThirtyFree Rookie

ThirtyFree

Posted
Posted
Rb25de+t reliability if done correctly r33 s1

G'day everyone I have a doozy of a pickle. I have built a rb25de+t with good bolt on equipment front facing plenum, big front mount, standard exhaust manifold and a new standard turbo 

the problem is we got the car running okay with a few mods like injectors and adjustments of tps sensor 

so I took the car to a track day to practice drifting and it was going well until it started to misfire cylinder 6 so we found out that I either have a hole in the piston or blew the head gasket or a valve (I'll have it apart this arvo) 

but now I was really happy with the power it put down thinking roughly 200-250 kw and now I'm asking is it possible to beef up a rb25de (a lot cheaper than a det) and get a good tune adjust timing fuel and everything else, I like the power of high compression I'm thinking a thicker good quality head gasket and bolts but unsure how the internals will hold 

welcome to all comments??

IMG_1278.mp4

baron_von_bootsector Enthusiast

baron_von_bootsector

Posted
Posted

Depends on what you mean by "beef up" if by that you are going to throw a decent set of rods and pistons at it and some head work then the sky (or more likely your wallet / fuel system) is the limit. If you are only planning on the gasket and bolts then you will be limited in what you can throw into it safely and that will also be dependent on your combustible of choice (98 or E85). The goal that you have *should* be reachable with a stock bottom end in good condition and reliably so if you are careful with the tune. 

On the bright side keeping your normal DE compression and slightly lower boost might be a good idea to make it as usable as possible - most factory turbo cars these days are shipping with >=10:1 compression for the simple reason that they are trying to make best use of small turbos and create the illusion of a larger motor rather than the laggy huge boot in the pants 1980's turbo experience.  

  • Like 1
ThirtyFree Rookie

ThirtyFree

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 hours ago, ThirtyFree said:

Rb25de+t reliability if done correctly r33 s1

G'day everyone I have a doozy of a pickle. I have built a rb25de+t with good bolt on equipment front facing plenum, big front mount, standard exhaust manifold and a new standard turbo 

the problem is we got the car running okay with a few mods like injectors and adjustments of tps sensor 

so I took the car to a track day to practice drifting and it was going well until it started to misfire cylinder 6 so we found out that I either have a hole in the piston or blew the head gasket or a valve (I'll have it apart this arvo) 

but now I was really happy with the power it put down thinking roughly 200-250 kw and now I'm asking is it possible to beef up a rb25de (a lot cheaper than a det) and get a good tune adjust timing fuel and everything else, I like the power of high compression I'm thinking a thicker good quality head gasket and bolts but unsure how the internals will hold 

welcome to all comments??

IMG_1278.mp4

Turns out there is a slight crack in head gasket and was some gunk under the exhaust valve 

in thinking of running e85 on a high compression low boost with 250kw in mind apparently e85 likes high compression?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...