Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2004 V35, Oil light on under braking

Hey guys,

 

I just noticed this today, but under somewhat hard braking, my oil light came on. Now I checked the oil before and it seems full, and it was full about a week ago (will check again on cold engine tomorrow morning).

 

The oil light only very briefly comes on, and goes away when stationary, it never comes on under accelerating, holding speed or normal braking, only hard braking, and if i hit the clutch when I do. 

 

The car is very low km (53000), and had all fluids changed at 52000kms, so I don't think it could be low.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

 

p.s. car is 04 V35 non rev up VQ35DE

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471571-2004-v35-oil-light-on-under-braking/
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, ka86 said:

If it's not happening when accelerating dare say that you're building enough oil pressure which goes when braking.

I'd say oil pump and or oil sender unit.

Would that happen on such a low km engine, and it only happens for a second after I put my foot on the clutch while braking.

It can happen on a brand new engine. Unfortunately mass production can have some parts fail however haven't heard of these failing often.

If you're 100% sure your oil level is correct I would look at the sender (including wiring) and pump as a start.  

On a separate note when you imported it, were the Kms verified/checked thoroughly to condition etc?

 

16 minutes ago, ka86 said:

It can happen on a brand new engine. Unfortunately mass production can have some parts fail however haven't heard of these failing often.

If you're 100% sure your oil level is correct I would look at the sender (including wiring) and pump as a start.  

On a separate note when you imported it, were the Kms verified/checked thoroughly to condition etc?

 

Yep, full dereg and genuine kms, not worn out like a high km car, I'm going to drive it down to my mechanic tomorrow to see if he can mechanically check the pressure, its only a short drive and the car isn't making noises nor is it low on oil so should be ok i think. I'm leaning toward thinking its the sensor. 

The engine idle is dropping too low to activate the oil pressure sensor circuit and keep the light off. What is causing this low idle at deceleration/no load? Any solid or intermittent checklight Secondary O2 sensor bad? Tps/thottle body good/needs cleaning? Vqs are throttle by wire right? Coilpack failing/misfiring? What does the idle drop to? Seeing that you went through the trouble of changing all the fluids do you mind getting a new crank sensor and using the original as a spare? Oil light=car on engine not running/oil light wire short/engine idle too low(see above questions)/clogged oil strainer/very old oil/faulty or ailing oil pump(ailing and dead are the same it wont gush oil on the cams due to not enough oil pressure). If either O2 sensor is bad/very very dirty the ecu will compensate fueling and timing on deceleration wrong it would run rich and pull timing. If the throttle body or idle valve is "sick" it wont give correct air compensation on deceration. Coilpacks love to give trouble off load and idle. If ur crank sensor is on its way out on deceleration it would pick up wrong and bog. When you depress the brake and clutch pedal, individual signals go to the ecu to help with transient compensation, load to off load, off load to load etc. Hope this makes sense and helps to understand how various problems occur.

I Would agree with the others, possibly rpm dropping too low, or it could be a sender issue, if you can confirm the RPM isn't dropping below 650rpm when you press the clutch, then perhaps have the mechanic fit a pressure gauge and take it for a drive to check oil pressure figures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...