Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Splitfire RB25DET S1/S2 Coil Packs, RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, R34 NEO stuff.

Hello,

Have the following for sale, located in Wollongong NSW (2500):

6x RB25DET Splitfire Coil Packs to suit RB25DET S1/S2 motors. Only reason for sale as went RB25DET NEO and have upgraded ignition. 6-8 months use in perfect condition - $300

Nissan RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, in good working order - $150

R34 NEO Intake Manifold, complete with rail and injectors, IACV, throttle body etc - $150

R34 AC Compressor - $150

R34 Engine Mount brackets - $30

R34 NEO Engine Cover - $50

R33 Turbo Exhaust Manifold, good condition/no cracks/straight/flat - $80

R33 Golpher Racing Radiator - straight/no dings -- old motor did blow head gasket very minimal oil, have cleaned out and bathed the radiator, but probably need a hot flush - $50

Can get pics if needed, but pretty sure everyone knows what it all looks like.

Feel free to PM and I will get back to you if you are interested at anything.

 

Cheers,

Noobles

Edited by Noobles
3 minutes ago, Noobles said:

6x RB25DET Splitfire Coil Packs to suit RB25DET S1/S2 motors. Only reason for sale as went RB25DET NEO and have upgraded ignition. 6-8 months use in perfect condition - $300

Nissan RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, in good working order - $150

Coil packs are different between S1 and S2. The latter has built-in igniters. Which one have you got?

S1/S2 CAS are also different, but unsure of interchangeability.

10 hours ago, inmaniac said:

Coil packs are different between S1 and S2. The latter has built-in igniters. Which one have you got?

S1/S2 CAS are also different, but unsure of interchangeability.

S2 coil packs with built in igniters... can be used on S1 with S2 loom or modifying existing (I should of stated though).

It is a S2 CAS, but will work on S1 (well I have done this in the past in my experience).

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...