Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Splitfire RB25DET S1/S2 Coil Packs, RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, R34 NEO stuff.

Hello,

Have the following for sale, located in Wollongong NSW (2500):

6x RB25DET Splitfire Coil Packs to suit RB25DET S1/S2 motors. Only reason for sale as went RB25DET NEO and have upgraded ignition. 6-8 months use in perfect condition - $300

Nissan RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, in good working order - $150

R34 NEO Intake Manifold, complete with rail and injectors, IACV, throttle body etc - $150

R34 AC Compressor - $150

R34 Engine Mount brackets - $30

R34 NEO Engine Cover - $50

R33 Turbo Exhaust Manifold, good condition/no cracks/straight/flat - $80

R33 Golpher Racing Radiator - straight/no dings -- old motor did blow head gasket very minimal oil, have cleaned out and bathed the radiator, but probably need a hot flush - $50

Can get pics if needed, but pretty sure everyone knows what it all looks like.

Feel free to PM and I will get back to you if you are interested at anything.

 

Cheers,

Noobles

Edited by Noobles
3 minutes ago, Noobles said:

6x RB25DET Splitfire Coil Packs to suit RB25DET S1/S2 motors. Only reason for sale as went RB25DET NEO and have upgraded ignition. 6-8 months use in perfect condition - $300

Nissan RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, in good working order - $150

Coil packs are different between S1 and S2. The latter has built-in igniters. Which one have you got?

S1/S2 CAS are also different, but unsure of interchangeability.

10 hours ago, inmaniac said:

Coil packs are different between S1 and S2. The latter has built-in igniters. Which one have you got?

S1/S2 CAS are also different, but unsure of interchangeability.

S2 coil packs with built in igniters... can be used on S1 with S2 loom or modifying existing (I should of stated though).

It is a S2 CAS, but will work on S1 (well I have done this in the past in my experience).

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...