Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTST Auto Issues

Morgan12
 Share

Recommended Posts

Morgan12 Newbie

Morgan12

Posted
Posted
R33 GTST Auto Issues

Hi there, I am new to the skyline family but I am having some issues as of late.  My car is a 1993 Auto R33 GTST Skyline 4 DR Sedan. No real major mods. It has been running fine for approx 6 months and now I am having issues with auto box.  Upon starting it revs at 1200-1400 rpm for 10 mins then drops down to 500-600 rpm. When it does this, the gears will not change until I hit higher rpm between 3500-4500 rpm. Does this in cold weather more often.  Please any advice would be appreciated 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472084-r33-gtst-auto-issues/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Could be just about anything.  A serious contender would be the throttle position sensor.  It plays a part in idle behaviour and tranny behaviour.  But it could also be something that is only affecting the engine speed (like a failed cold start valve or IAC) or it could be a vacuum leak, or it could be a transmission failure that the TCU is sending a signal to the ECU causing the high idle (and the tranny failure eventually makes it not shift properly when it gets warm).

By far your best bet is to loosen the bellhousing bolts from the back of the engine, remove the tailshaft, remove the transmission crossmember and shake the car vigorously over a scrap metal bin.  When you hear a loud banging noise, your problems will be mostly better.

But if you don't want to do that, I suggest getting a proper workshop grade scantool onto the Consult port and look for codes that might explain it.  Some of the possibles I listed above should turn up that way, regardless of whether they originate in the ECU or the TCU.

Morgan12 Newbie

Morgan12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I should've mentioned I have changed the TPS and cleaned out the IAC valve extensively twice.  Also replaced the coolant temp sensor and had the tranny fluid and filter changed. None of the above have fixed or improved. Tried to do diagnostics mode but unsuccessful due to lack of operator knowledge :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      10 minutes on a lathe would be one way to achieve literally anything you want, too. (except for AN type stuff - just talking about M-F with BSP and NPT in any mix/combo).
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah, so "something" should be -4 AN....to a hose....to a -4AN to NPT fitting *edit* sorry, I surely have that backwards. The LS is from land of the free so it must be NPT at the block, and the Nissan sender is BSPT. But still, conceptually the same
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea I mean I know it exists, but finding (specifically) female BSPT to male NPT (i.e, to plug a Nissan OEM sensor into a 'standard' NPT port) was truly difficult. I don't think I'll recreate the setup I had in the past unless it's (possibly?) advisable with a stronger T piece made of steel, but who knows if the aluminium threads in the block become the next weak point etc. Given it may need to be redrilled out and something tapped into it, it'll need to be Female BSPT to the something that ends uo coming out of the side of the block.
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds like a perfect time to harness up a couple of the dogs, show the horses what real power is about!
×
×
  • Create New...