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1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Then send its mum to town, 2bar boost.

I think the old gt3076 will need an upgrade first. Once I've got these things sorted will get it on the corn juice and send it to make a decent number. 

Made a heap of progress today and got the car running again. Nz wiring trigger kit was easy to fit and after a few trial and error with settings got it fired up, trigger scope is stable and revs cleanly. Fitted a new aeroflow fuel reg too so pressure is at 45psi base now. 

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Got the realdash app working with the ecu, currently just setup off the tuning port but have a CAN to USB adapter so I can display some more stuff and switch boost by CAN. 

Found a wheel bearing had packed it in so now waiting for that to arrive before back to Dyno and roady Friday atm. 

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  • Like 1

Car is now registered and done some small drives, it is really loud inside the car but quiet outside. Drives very nicely and no weird noises, stereo is good with Bluetooth music and realdash app going. 

Fixed everything and went back to the Dyno. Trigger kit fixed alot of things but Intercooler is not happy after a few back to back pulls with 60-70 degrees seen and pulling boost & timing but happy with results for doing everything myself. Will go e85 after rockynats and give it 25psi and extra timing. 

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  • Like 3

Rockynats is done..... 

Car went well all weekend. Did 1/8th mile racing and got hosed by a lotus as absolutely no traction. Made 260kw at the Dyno and around 100kms of street driving and cruising. Confused many people what it was.  Pretty good event for the first one, even though it rained all today will definitely enter the next one. 

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  • Like 4

Decided late last week I wanted to go to japnats at QR, couldn't go all that way and not drive the event so took the 370. Had a heap of fun but the automatic isn't really up for circuit duties. 

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  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Got the sil80 out for round 2 of the local sprints, put the Nankang Ar1 back on and sorted a wheel alignment. Car went pretty well bar the cooler pipe coming off the DBW throttle body, alternator playing up when hot and getting use to it again as only been 4 years since I last raced it. Finished 6th outright and 2nd in class with a 48.64 some very quick cars & drivers out there. Missing my fixed back seat and harness like the race car.........

Plan to get a throttle body to vband/clamp thing on and mod cooler pipe, corner weight, LS alternator conversion and re-align it. Cars got plenty of power so no point going e85 yet. It's around 4 weeks until next event.

Will get the gopro and film next event as was in a rush to get ready and forgot it 

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...

In preparation for next weekends sprints bought an aeroflow dbw adapter and Intercooler clamp kit

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Was going to modify my pipe but wasn't going to work and look right so made a new one and it's a lot better than the original, a mate helped me out with advice on tig settings so welds are looking better. 

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So with that done had to go test with a quick run up the highway. Before heading off I'd setup flat shift and boost by gear. It all works as intended and it's weird not lifting going up the gears. So will go through and setup the downshift blip too. 

Spent this afternoon going over the car with a bolt & fluid check, rebled brakes & clutch and made a camera mount for the rear pillar bar. Just need to get the advans fitted and put in fresh fuel. 

  • Like 1

Stock 25 box, use ignition retard and throttle to reduce torque and Timer once clutch is disengaged. Testing the downshift blib tomorrow. 

For an older ecu the g4+ are great. Don't know if it will help lap times yet. 

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Stock 25 box, use ignition retard and throttle to reduce torque and Timer once clutch is disengaged. Testing the downshift blib tomorrow. 

For an older ecu the g4+ are great. Don't know if it will help lap times yet. 

How do you plan on getting down shift to work? How will the ecu know you are shifting down? I suppose you could have a logic set-up with revs over a certain amount and clutch in to expect a down shift. Be interested to hear how you go.

Easy with a sequential as the direction of lever means up or down, not the case with h pattern

36 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

How do you plan on getting down shift to work? How will the ecu know you are shifting down? I suppose you could have a logic set-up with revs over a certain amount and clutch in to expect a down shift. Be interested to hear how you go.

Easy with a sequential as the direction of lever means up or down, not the case with h pattern

Using a virtual aux with tp, clutch switch and rpm as logics. 

  • Like 1

Had a little bit of success with down shift blip. Ended up using clutch and brake switches with AP% as logics. Got it to do 10% TP blip while I get it sorted. Sounds cool coming down the gears from speed. 

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41 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

What's AP%?

Aux percentage? which is comprised of clutch, tps, and rpm as you said above? 

Accelerator pedal, link ecu you can create virtual auxiliary outputs using a combination of auxiliary inputs/outputs. Got to be on the brake and clutch, be less than 10% AP for it to recognise a down shift condition. The only way I could come up with to recognise downshift with out a sequential box with gear position switch. Got an RPM limit to avoid over rev too. 

Probably not worth any time out on the track but have a the ecu and time to learn the features. 

 

  • Like 1

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