Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We found out yesterday after the pump started making noise was a few facts:

Note: my car is AUTOMATIC RB25-DET

 

1/ The power steering noise starts after driving on the freeway at 80-120kms on throttle after slowing down after at least a 30min trip.Doesn't happen when cold or short trips.

 

2/ When the fault occurs (power steering noise) the car seems to be stuck on higher revs than normal idling approx 1000-2000 revs. So at fault we have the noisy power steering pump PLUS a higher rev stuck ON.

The idle only lowers once the car is turned off/on again. At that time the power steering pump noise goes away again temporarily.

 

Once the car is turned off/on again the idle lowers to normal again but if I keep driving it normally after the fault you can start to hear the pump noise again.

 

So wondering now if I've got a problem with the car's idle at high speed?

 

When it warms up in the morning she revs higher til warm then she lowers to normal so no issue's here.

 

The problem only happens after a good min half hour run on the freeway.

 

Any ideas? Cause I'm running out of them.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Does the R33 Series 2 GTST turbo run a power steering cooling system?

Its got the HICAS system.

Im thinking maybe its not cooling correctly

OR

Only other idea is that its being blocked from fluid running somewhere at high speed. Or it maybe revving too high at 80-100kms

We've bled the system numerous times, cleaned the reservoir out, its not cavetating, no air bubbles, no heavy steering, car isnt over heating. Starts up from cold ok at 1000rpm then once warm drops to approx 800rpm. Been through two power steering pumps with BOTH having exactly same fault. Current one was ok for 3 weeks then started making the noises again....

The issue only happens out on the freeway doing 80-100kms per hr after at least 30-45mins....

Im trying to get it into a nissan workshop now OR maybe taking it up to the power steering joint cause Im outta ideas.

The power steering system is a simple on an r33 because hicas is electrically controlled. R32 is hydraulic hicas off the main power steering so it's a different kettle of fish. There may be some small detail like a seal or hose clamp on a return line allowing a small amount of air in when hot. Has it all been checked for defective hoses, hose clamps and/or seals?

The power steering system is a simple on an r33 because hicas is electrically controlled. R32 is hydraulic hicas off the main power steering so it's a different kettle of fish. There may be some small detail like a seal or hose clamp on a return line allowing a small amount of air in when hot. Has it all been checked for defective hoses, hose clamps and/or seals?

That was the next port of call. My mechanic was gonna have for a few days to go through every hose/clamp.
Are there any small filters in any of the hoses?
I can't get it in til 23rd Nov so might take her up to the power steering joint this afternoon and get them to do a once over cause I figure they can spot power steering faults quicker.
And if it aint the power steering then we can move onto other causes.

Its definately lacking flow when hot and under speed 80-100kms after a good 30min run on the freeway.
Got it on the M3 here at Hoddle St and by the time I got to Ringwood exit on the way back she started making the noise.
The current reco pump was ok for 3 weeks but same issue came back so reluctant to install another pump until we figure out the cause....
Maybe its a tensioner or could even be the a/c too as its on that same size.

Did you ever mention what Fluid you are using?

I'm finding it really hard to believe you are having this much issue with the pump itself, as per my post on the previous page, I ran mine DRY for about 30mins and it still works absolutely perfect to this day about 5 years on.

I would do as suggested and remove the power steering belt, drive the car and see what happens. It is possible that hearing the noise is causing your brain to think there is a power steering issue. At least this will prove it is the power steering system.

Does the noise change at all when you steer? Perhaps there is a bypass valve in the steering rack that has an issue? (I'm not 100% on how the racks handle the oil when there is no steering movement). Also, there is a solenoid for the power steering effort in the rack that controls the assistance based on speed (controlled by HICAS ECU). I have had this fault before and the steering is heavy all the time (ECU Failed)

Edited by 89CAL
Did you ever mention what Fluid you are using?
I'm finding it really hard to believe you are having this much issue with the pump itself, as per my post on the previous page, I ran mine DRY for about 30mins and it still works absolutely perfect to this day about 5 years on.
I would do as suggested and remove the power steering belt, drive the car and see what happens. It is possible that hearing the noise is causing your brain to think there is a power steering issue. At least this will prove it is the power steering system.
Does the noise change at all when you steer? Perhaps there is a bypass valve in the steering rack that has an issue? (I'm not 100% on how the racks handle the oil when there is no steering movement). Also, there is a solenoid for the power steering effort in the rack that controls the assistance based on speed (controlled by HICAS ECU). I have had this fault before and the steering is heavy all the time (ECU Failed)

My mechanic put the fuild in so not sure which brand he used.
Theres more than one issue going on apart from the power steering pump being loud.
It seems to be stuck on a higher rev when the fault occurs or you can hear it revving higher and as mentioned it stops when i turn the car off/on again.
It maybe something not cooling the ps fluid enough under high revs, it might be something is blocked ...
Its going to the Nissan tuning specialist this week for a week to try to narrow down the exact cause.
I can drive around locally with zero issues its only when im out on the freeway at 80-120kms p/hr after about 30mins when the winding noise starts.

When the fault originally started with the old pump I could hit the accelerator pedal to rev it and it would go away but eventually that didnt help.
She warms up ok at 1000rpm then down to 800rpm when warm.
Oil cooler temp when warming up is on tab up from 4 but then lowers to halfway but does fluctuate under stick.
Car temp is fine especially now we have a new clutch fan installed.
Note: The noise was happening pre-new clutch fan.
Below is a photo of cold vs warm on the dash when normal.
It could be a million things. Hence dropping it off to Nissan specialists this week. Not a dealer, a reputable tuning/build mechanic that deals in JDM only cars.
Will post later this week a photo of the tacho when the fault occurs cause I need it to fault before i get to the mechanics on the day i drop it off.


IMG_3398.jpg
IMG_3400.jpg

Update: I sprayed all 3 pullys with WD40 as advised by a few R33 owner buddies and when I took the car to the mechanic the bloody thing wouldnt fault! Hahaha
I was diving up/down the M3 for at least a good hour giving her stick but zero fault which is always the way when you want it to it never does...[emoji849]

We've found out the new engine clutch fan is ON all the time atm so getting that rectified and getting an OEM one fitted which is what I asked for but obviously didnt get.[emoji20]

Also getting a new PS belt put on then the cars gonna be re-tested later this coming week.
TBC

Ahhh WD40 on the belts. Soapy water works much better because it dries and doesnt leave residue.......

As above with the clutch fan, davies craig hubs tend to be on 100% all of the time however. Stock ones usually do the opposite when they wear out

Ahhh WD40 on the belts. Soapy water works much better because it dries and doesnt leave residue.......

 

As above with the clutch fan, davies craig hubs tend to be on 100% all of the time however. Stock ones usually do the opposite when they wear out

 

The current clutch is the Davies Craig but I actually wanted OEM Nissan but this Davies one is locked ON 24/7 which is cool if you wanna keep it cool BUT as soon as you floor it, so does the clutch fan and its louder than the turbo its sucking that much air.

Changing to OEM Nissan Fan clutch.

 

I didnt spray the belts , that'd just make the belts slip, I just sprayed a bit on each of the 3 the pullys (PS, AC & tensioner under PS&AC)where the bearings are only. The car has been sitting around for a year so maybe it just needed a little lubricant to get it moving more freely...havent touched it since.

Cars getting retested post clutch fan change over etc. The Davies one is loud but it def cools the hell outta the car but everytime you want power you get the fan kicking in just as hard to tje point of annoyance.

FINALLY Racepace found the issue with my car today. After

I drove off with it, it faulted on the way home so i drove it back to them faulting.

 

They found the problem in about 10mins.

 

Looks like my A/C is ON even when its turned OFF = pipes freezing = A/C compressor making noises.

As soon as you remove the AC fuse the noise stopped, so they've unplugged the AC plug above the Compressor for now until we can find the wiring fault.

My car had an entire loom replaced so they think its wiring or a wrong pin connector.

 

Also they found that it has an R34 CAS fitted so theyre wondering if my car engine is a Neo with R34 camshafts also....Its a 40th Anniversary 11/1997 build date so not sure if this model came out with some R34 bits??

Im the 1st Aussie owner so it arrived to me like this with auction paperwork matching 94,500kms...

 

  • Like 1

Further to this I highly recommend the guys down at Racepace Motorsport in Bayswater. [emoji298]️[emoji298]️

As soon as I took my car here they diagnosed & fixed everything properly , professionally.

It was a relief to finally find a workshop that really knows GTST's & GTR's in/out.

Can't thank them enough for their help.[emoji41]

Also have found out that the 40th Anniversary model s did come with R34 CAS's so I'm on the assumption my engine is the original motor. [emoji469]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...