Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so basically im looking to build a 30de engine 
 i want to go high comp na for whatever reasons that dont really matter at this point     haha 1 point left cant drive turbo blah blah blah all the usual shit
THE BLOCK what i want to build consists of a 30e block, crank and rods, 25de pistons shave the block 1mm to get the pistons up a bit because they sit 1mm further down the 30e pistons. THE HEAD this will be a det neo head with re lapped valves stock springs. either 250ish degree regrinds or 260 degree poncam drop ins with an adjustable exhaust cam gear and stock intake stuff to keep variable timing. im going to just skim the head this should bring the compression to somewhere around 12:1. im going to grub screw the oil gallerie in the block and run a head oil drain kit. im going to drill and tap an oil gallery in the side of the block to run a hard line up to the vct stuff pics below. and ill be porting the head myself a decent amount but i wont be going crazy.
i need advice on what i should do for the intake manifold. do i a lave the stock neo intake manifold on to get the engine in and work out any bugs. B use a neo freddy plenum. or C relocate the vct solenoid and go to rb26 itbs using an adapter plate and some ram tubes on the itbs of some sort. the other thing i need to know is exactly where to put the stud for the new tensioner for the timing belt and if it differs from the standard r33 25det head conversion..

my final goal is as close to 160kw as possible on e85 and im going to be revving it as high as it wants to make power. i was thinking cap the revs at 7500 cause i reckon it will drop off before then anyway.

anyone got any tips or advice on things i should change or shit i just completely overlooked. anything really cause this is all theory in my head based off other builds

13198537_229885247386955_1082394858558284121_o.jpg

13256379_238941733147973_5688982542102126073_n.jpg

13238882_238941793147967_8673363476852163794_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472283-rb30de-neo-engine-build-questions/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

If you're in Sydney I have the following items of which may benefit you:

  • RB25DET NEO Head Bolts/Washer
  • RB25DET NEO Intake/Exhaust Cam Shafts
  • RB25DET NEO Pistons and Rods
  • RB25DET NEO Injectors
  • RB25DET NEO OEM Head Gasket (brand new)
  • RB25DET NEO OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket (brand new)
  • 3 months later...

Um, 3 litre twin cam 12:1 compression and E85, and you only want 160kW?  I assume that's at the wheels, but it's still a pretty low goal.  I mean, a stock 7M-GE was 142 kW (at the fly) way back in the 80s.  The 25DE Neo is 147kW at the fly.  You're only talking about 50 extra kW at the treads with an extra 20% displacement and cams and porting and alcohol.

I'd be aiming for the moon.  9000rpm, Weber pattern (or similar) ITBs in a fibreglass airbox (think Pipercross), 280+° and as much lift as can be squeezed into the head.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...