Jump to content
SAU Community

Anti-Lag with PFC pro.

MJTru

By MJTru,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Hello guys I just started up one of my build and tested it using stock injectors which I thing was fine for braking it in. I drive it and everything seems fine make good power, but like expected I can see I'm running out of injector duty. No big deal I have another set that are 850. And these are what I tend to run. But before I install them and take the car to get tuned. I decided to just pop in the pfc pro. To make sure it works. I uploaded my tune and cranked the are up.

It all worked fine. After the idle was learned. I tried the anti-lag feature. I see it uses the ac to set the ignition cut so I set it to 5k, and floored the gas. I only got about 7 psi and I'm looking for way more than that. Keeping in mind the injectors are still stock. I'm just wondering a few things.

 

1. How does t a anti-Lag system get the boost to go even higher. Does it need more ignition delay. And how do I do that with the pro. ??

 

How can I get this PT 7675 going. I'm after 22 psi or so off the line. Attached I have a photo of the screen. Opps it's saying this forum has disabled media sharing. Why.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472378-anti-lag-with-pfc-pro/
Share on other sites
burn4005 Proficient

burn4005

Posted
Posted

you need use the combustion energy to turn the turbo rather than provide cylinder pressure. you want more ignition retard to burn the charge later.

the PowerFC pro is a piece of shit in 2017. pull it out and use a real ecu.

it's "launch control" is only an ignition cut instead of fuel, and an auxillary rev limiter.

its not a real launch control system.

ideally you want an ecu that can do TPS defined ignition retard activated by low road speed & a clutch switch.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah. I still have the Haltech ps2000. I found out today the hard way that I f--ked up. I was under the impression that that it was an anti lag launch control. After I kept on flooring it and only saw 4 psi. So I guess If I want boost off the line I'll have to upgrade the ecu. We all learn differently and for me it's a hard to drop old habits for new ones. Even though people beat me up for it. Over the years I've seen more and more car over here state side run Haltech ecus. 

I'll have to start taking the time to get familiar with the ecu, and just face up to it. I did get me rb25 running on it and it worked pretty well, but moved back to the power fc. Bad habits I guess. To get the car going hard I dropped the clutch at 9k. The thing was an absolute animal and the turn worked well at 14psi. It took that much rpms to get that turbo going off the line. I also run the ets-pro so all 4 wheels smoked, and gate opened up right away. 

None the less I want to launch the car at a lower rpm, but with boost as I'm only geared towards drag racing.  I have a grudge match coming up Sunday. I'll have to run the fc for this. As it will take me some time to set up the Haltech. 

Is there any shops out there, willing to sell me a complete Haltech setup. Closed loop wideband setup as well even providing the injectors for 800 Hp. Along with a bit of advice and help seeing up injectors.  I ask because I'll need another one anyways. I'm also looking for the evo to be able to use a strain gauge for 0s88 that's coming soon. 

Thanks again and sorry I didn't use the Haltech. There I said it. 

Help me make this car go. 

20170922_175213.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...