Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’m gathering up bits to help the install of my parts

im fitting top mounted 3076r gen2 to a 6 boost, v band setup, rb25 neo

has anyone used this kit for lines ? Or could they possibly advise on what I need, or lengths required

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAMBA-For-NISSAN-RB20DET-RB25DET-Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-Garrett-GTX3076R-Top-Mount/192419511661?hash=item2ccd18bd6d:g:MiAAAOSwcj1Z9huv

 

or am I better specifying the lengths to a hose supply shop and making them fit. I gather from Garrett website I need a 1mm restrictor, 4an oil feed, oil drain large enough to freely flow but it doesn’t tell me what size water pipes to use?

cheers

Edited by Eager

Don't use a kit, especially the mamba ones. Buy all the lines and fittings yourself and make it all, it's really not hard.

-4 AN oil feed.
-8 or 10AN oil drain.
-6 AN coolant lines

  • Thanks 1

And what sort of fittings do the lines need on the ends ? Banjo for water in and water out? M10 ? I know the water return end needs a special fitting to fit behind the head

is oil feed from the block banjo too? I know it’s screw in fitting on the turbo  

 

Echoing what's above, I used a mamba/kinugawa kit back a couple of years ago now and it "worked" but wasn't the best. While it didn't leak or really let me down, the lengths didn't really match up with my setup which made it a bit of a messy install.

+1 for buying your own fittings and lines. It's cheaper, generally easier, and you can pick the fittings/colours if you're into that too.

  • Like 1
On 1/14/2018 at 8:02 PM, Eager said:

And what sort of fittings do the lines need on the ends ? Banjo for water in and water out? M10 ? I know the water return end needs a special fitting to fit behind the head

is oil feed from the block banjo too? I know it’s screw in fitting on the turbo  

 

Whatever you want, whatever fits. Lot of people use thread to -an adaptors out of the block, I used a banjo one for the oil feed on my block because my manifold was in the way. Was going to use banjos' on my turbo core but wouldn't work with the plugs in the way, etc.

Used 200 series -6 for water lines made it up myself at home, same for oil feed but in -4. Pretty easy to cut and assemble in the shed.

 

Edit: also, water return: it returns both behind the head and infront of it to the radiator return. I and a lot of people have just not bothered to reconnect the one behind the head. Not sure how exactly it returns on Non 26 heads, but for the 26 coolant elbow you can take out the existing tube fitting, tap it with a M10 thread and install a M10 to -6 adaptor which looks really neat.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 months later...

Is there a nicer method of water return on the rb25 ?

i know the fixed rigid pipe runs into a rubber hose behind the head, just do the same ? With a braided hose and a barb type fitting ? Or what’s the method when doing a whole new turbo install 

other lines I’m ok with 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...