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z32 AFM ohms resistance testing (multimeter)


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Couldn't find anything about testing these z32 AFMs without applying power so I thought I'd post this which may benefit someone

Genuine z32 AFM

C - D: 0.2 ohms (positive continuity test)

B - E: 
Red - Black probe: 18.15 kilo-ohms
Black - Red probe: 18.46 kilo-ohms

B - C & D:
Red - Black probe: 5.345 kilo-ohms
Black - Red probe: 4.630 kilo-ohms

E - C & D:
Red - Black probe: 12.65 kilo-ohms
Black - Red probe: 12.57 kilo-ohms
 

The results for the Genuine z32 AFM are an average reading between 5 different (including x2 brand new Bosch) AFMs, resistance readings was no more than 0.04 kilo-ohms apart from each other.

 

I was also given a 'Fake' z32 AFM with the Nissan logo so I thought I'd may as well see what its resistance readings were.

Fake z32 AFM

C - D: 0.2 ohms (positive continuity test)

B - E: 
Red - Black probe: 17.80 kilo-ohms
Black - Red probe: 18.34 kilo-ohms

B - C & D:
Red - Black probe: 5.230 kilo-ohms
Black - Red probe: 4.465 kilo-ohms

E - C & D:
Red - Black probe: 12.62 kilo-ohms
Black - Red probe: 12.47 kilo-ohms


IMG_5904.thumb.JPG.19e52b3b9e196dc7b0601c90d7ab49ba.JPG

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  • 3 years later...

I have a suspect 'Hitachi' unit, the readings where a mix of exactly what you recorded for your genuine Z32's and one which was more in line with the fake Z32's, abiet with a slightly larger margin of variation. My multimeter batteries were juuust hanging in there so I wouldn't bank on the readings though. 

I think I'll pass on it tho (until I have better information) and just wear the ridiculous price for a verified unit... (Or make the leap to MAP and modern ecu, as the plenum, cooler, piping is being changed anyway. Yet I still can't bring myself to pay the asking price for a Bosh Z32 hahaa.)

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2 points.

  1. There's not enough difference between the resistance readings of the genuine and fake Z32s in the OP to represent any diagnostic/differentiation tool between them. Most importantly, seeing as the resistance of the internals is not what determines the output of them.....trying to split them on resistance is most unlikely to work. They are an electronic circuit that outputs a 0-5V signal based on how much current it finds itself using to maintain the hot wire at the target temperature. More air flow = more cooling = more current required to maintain the temperature. All the magic is inside, not at the resistance between the terminals.
  2. No-one in their right mind would even consider using a Z32 AFM these days.
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