Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had everything typed up last night and i pressed post and IE froze.

Z33 FairladyZ $87,498

VQ35DE

221kW/300PS @ 6400rpm

363Nm/37.0kgm @ 4400rpm

1575kg

3door 5MT E ATx

$20,839

CR12DE

66kw/90ps @ 5600rpm

121/12.3kgm @ 3200rpm

5door 5MT

$20,864

5door E ATx

$21,572

5door E ATx

$22,173

R34 GTR S-tune

RB26DETT S1 S-tune concept engine spec 1

400ps @ 6800rpm

45kgm @ 5600rpm

R34 GTR R-tune

RB26DETT R1 R-tune concept engine 1

450ps @ 7600rpm

48kgm @ 5600rpm

mypic1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47386-nismo-r-s-z-tune/#findComment-959017
Share on other sites

Z tune is the more hardcore tune (basically turns the Nissan into like a M3 CSL - a track based car without making it totally useless for the street).

S is the "docile" one with mainly suspension and body tweaks. Engines get better breathing.

R is somewhere between the S and the Z.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47386-nismo-r-s-z-tune/#findComment-959347
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
Ok. That clears up all these Tuning Lingo. But what does N1 Spec means?

N1 is a race class in Japan that has homologated cars. Nissan put into the 32-34 series GT-R's steel-wheeled turbines (can hold higher boost without spitting the exhaust wheels down to meet Mr. Cat), suspension tweaks, bigger/beefier brakes, ATTESSA system fine tuning/reprogramming, some weight reduction (doesn't have an aircon) etc to homologate the car in order to race in this class :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47386-nismo-r-s-z-tune/#findComment-1138275
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...