Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Gauge Install Problem

Up_Troys_Bucket
 Share

Recommended Posts

Up_Troys_Bucket Apprentice

Up_Troys_Bucket

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Trying to install a boost gauge in my 89 R32 GTR. I've searched the forums and Google extensively and there is a lot of great information about teeing into the stock boost gauge line as shown in the attached picture borrowed from a diy thread on this forum. 

Problem is that line has been removed on my car. There are some other diagrams but I'll be honest, I don't get it. 

As I am a simple person and visual learner, does anyone have or can anyone take a photo showing me where that line used to connect to the engine? 

That way I figure I can skip teeing into that line and just connect the tube directly to the engine. 

Thankyou in advance!! 

post-10239-1150443464.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473990-boost-gauge-install-problem/
Share on other sites
Up_Troys_Bucket Apprentice

Up_Troys_Bucket

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

There's a little vacuum manifold that connects to all the inlet runners between the throttle blades and the head.  This is where the 26 gets vacuum signal to run the brakes, and boost gauge, etc.  You will not have fun trying to work under there.

I'll be honest I don't understand any of that. Don't get me wrong, I'm solid with wiring and connections and diy maintenance I just don't understand the parts and where they are but it sounds like you're saying it's a PITA. 

Engine bay is pretty chokers, any other suggestions? 

IMG_20180510_133707.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Where your fuel rail is, you can see the injectors.  Where they enter the inlet manifold runners is the spot where the vacuum signal comes from.  But the vacuum manifold I described is UNDER the inlet.  If the hose is not still present and just blocked off, it is going to be difficult.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...