Jump to content
SAU Community

Lightweight pulley experiment.

rev210

By rev210,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

I'm prepeared to get a lightweight front pulley made for the Rb26dett. At present I have a post on the forced induction area.

I have the oppertunity to have a front pulley made when a mate gets a few RB26 engines in a few months but, I was wondering if anyone has a spare front crankshaft pulley lying around they would be willing to lend me so I can have a copy made in alloy. This would save me waiting around and mean the 'test' will begin earlier and provide WA Rb26 owners with an earlier oppertunity to get cheap pulleys should it work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47433-lightweight-pulley-experiment/
Share on other sites
rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The factory unit weighs about 6kg. An alloy unit can be made around 800gms, thats a saving in the order of a light flywheel with the same effect.

There is a possibillity of making a unit with a vulcanised rubber sleave just like the factory one however instead of steel it can be made of alloy. I'm guessing the weight would be around 1.5kg. This type of setup would probably cost two or three times as much to make. I would need to pull the factory one appart, have the alloy machined to the same dimensions and have a vlucanised rubber sleave bonded with it.

N I B Grand Master

N I B

Posted
Posted

Will be the same disaster as the Alloy Z32 ones were with destroyed cranks and bearings

and as ND4SPD had no problems at just over 10000rpm with a stock nissan one id stay safe and use a factory job or tested billet steel ones.

Alloy dampers on the market now for other engines are not alloy copies of factory ones but much larger and no lighter than the stockers.

I've had custom balancers break cranks so violenty that even core plugs have come out of the block from flex.

Race balancers are for the topend of the performance market and wont give any gains worth the time or effort in mild engines so the money would make bigger gains in other areas.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I appreciate where your comming from Steve.

In the performance thread some time ago we covered the argument about the RB series being of the NVH style of pulley or an actual harmonic balancer. I am placing a bet that it is a NVH because so far no one has given any data or examples of it not being one. It's certainly not a 'rock solid' position but one I am willing to test due to the fact there is great benifit to be had if I am on the right track. I don't mind putting a well worn motor to the test because due to the pre-existing wear any harmonic issues will show up straight away. That and I think 230,000kms is pretty good out of an Rb26 and if it needs a rebuild I guess it deserves one :(

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ighlight=pulley

Thanks all the same for the input I'm quite glad for it. It's good to have people looking out for you trying to save some heart ache.

So far I have a pulley offered to measure up and a place to get it done. I'm interstate for the next two weeks so when I'm back I'll start to the ball rolling for the test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...