Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps look at a GTS25 (RB25DE) with a 2.5L NA engine? They are 140-something Kw (@ flywheel) stock and since a R32 weighs between 1260kg to 1320kg, it should pretty alright.

Dunno how much of a difference full-comp will cost you for a turbo R32 vs. a NA R32 (I don't think it's like night and day), it maybe better goin the turbo route.

IMO I don't think it's worth paying $2000-odd dollars on full comp insurance on a car that's some 12 - 15 years old. You'll pay half the value of the car just in insurance in 3 to 4 years.

only problem with R32 GTS25s is that most of em are auto models.

mines an N/A 1993 V Selection 2. The mods i have are... stainless steel fujitsubo extractors, HKS Airbox and full 2.5" exhaust with a rather high flowing cat :rofl:

it made 87rwkw with no tuning on 98RON fuel and only an ECU reset. Haven't properly dyno'd it since i'm droppin an RB25DET and TD06-25G into it :(

I am just look at a r32 gts-t non turbo 1989, but other than changing th ewhole engine itself what else can be done to improve the performance without spending a great deal of money?, because this is my first car by the way. I also want to ask how much insurance would i be paying if i went in teh 3rd party direction for this particular car non-turbo?

well my mate bought a R32 GTE (with an RB20E engine, which is even slower than a normal non turbo) for $1.50 and cost him $4500 something to bring into the country, plus 2k in compliance and rego and for $6500 he's got a 4 door R32 whicha buggered engine. So he's gonna kill the engine (quite litereally tharsh the **** out of it) then replace it with an RB25DET or something.

You'd be looking for a 1989 R32 GTS, which shouldn't be too expensive since everyone's looking for something tricked out. Since there's not really a demand for it, finding a relatively highly modified R32 GTS will be easy. I'm thinking something with 6 throttle bodies and the works. There's a few in Japan (not 89 models though) that run that setup and keep up with stock R33 GTSt's.

If you're in glenny send me an email sometime, I'll give you a ride in my clapped out GTS. And if you like it I can organise one from japan that's uber cheap.

I am some what confused about what a skyline gts-t and a gts are, what are the differences between the 2?, because i have never had a proper answer to that question.

By the way how cheap could u get the skylines any way the GTS or gts-t?

GTE = R32 poverty pack skyline with 2L N/A SOHC Engine (liek the one in the R31's in australia, but instead of 3L its 2L)

GTS = Regular R32 N/A with RB20DE engine

GTS25 = late model (think post 1992 or something) car with 2.5L N/A engine and mostly in auto (manual GTS25 is hard to find)

GTSt = GTS with a turbo engine called the RB20DET

GTS Type S = GTS Coupe with Full Sports Options as standard

GTSt Type M = GTSt Coupe with Full Sports Options as standard

GTS4 = GTS or GTSt with 4WD instead of RWD

confused enough?? :rofl:

the 89 GTSt i've brought down so far have cost maybe about 9k landed for an average one, and around 11k for a good one. Haven't brought down an N/A yet, coz I usually skip em.

The rules are about to change in August to either

a) any cars made after 1988 have to go through regular RAWS compliance instead of being eligible for 15 year exception

or

B) any cars brought in under the 15 year rule must have no accident history and be factory standard

or

c) 15yr rule change to 25 year rule.

This is thru some guys I know who work with DOTARs so brace yourself for changes to be made in August (and no they don't need to pass it thru parliament and give 18 months notice for an amendment).

yeah.. was meant to be july though :rofl: then the minister apparently got shuffled around to another post.

but if you've heard august its probably august..

They better make it if you've purchased the car you can still bring it in (like last time), or i'm up the shitter.. should be right..

yeah, by law they have to apply the rules that applied at the time of purchase, so everyone who buys now should be ok. Even if you bring it in after the law change, compliance etc is done under the laws that applied at the time of purchase. Its a pain in the arse with the extra paperwork and ringing DOTARS required, but yeah in the end it should be ok.

the price of insurance for a non turbo r32 vs turbo r32 wont be that much difference

get some quotes. the main cost of insurance is cos its an imported car, adding a turbocharger will add around an extra $200 per year or a tiny bit more

I didnt see this thread until now.

I posted this in your other thread.

With the money you would spend on making the gts faster you could have bought a gtst.

I have thought about getting rid of the rb30e and dropping an rb25de into an r31 but it really isnt worth it. I think the most it would it making at the wheels with some mods would be 110rwkw. I doubt it would have the same torque output even with the same mods.

The rb20de would be even worse, torque is going to be pretty sad. When you have an N/A engine displacement makes quite a difference and is an advantage.

The rb30 with the same mods would have a similar output (90 - 100rwkw) but it would have more torque.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylinerz

How can it because i want to get a r32 without a turbo because of the insurance and all, but what mods can i get to improve the horsepower, acceleration ect without a turbo.

Its been posted up on the forums a few times that the difference between N/A and turbo skylines isnt that much.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylinerz

what mods can i get to improve the horsepower, acceleration ect without a turbo.

If you are serious about modding the rb20de go with what blitz said. Its simply not worth going any further apart from turbo charging it.

I think you'd get from 0-100km/h in around 8.2 - 9.0 secs.

I say, save you money up for a gtst. You will be thankful you did and the turbo makes a world of difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...