Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

After a hand our lemon 24 hour car is now hitting the speed limiter (first time its gone 190kmph!) at Sandown at the SAU track day on the weekend. 

Car is a 2003 250GT and has the horrid VQ25DD engine, it is running the 6 speed conversion but we are hitting the limiter down the straights now. 

 

We are planning on running the lemons at the Bend so we need it gone. 

Need to know what wires to snip! dont care about speedo working but need to keep the ABS on as we use it for mates to come and have a go at track time so we have amateurs behind the wheel. 

 

 

DSC_0031.JPG

https://www.facebook.com/anotherdrunkidearacing 

Show me a tunner that can do this then! 

Not as simple as that it’s a vq25dd I can’t find anything on remaps or rom edits for this ecu. Can’t even find a ecu pinout......

They don’t hence why I asked does anyone know what wires to snip? Or does anyone have a 250gt vq25dd ecu pin out? 

Cant find anything online regarding vq25dd ecu pin out so any help is appreciated. And yes they are totally different across all the vq models. 

There's a guy who's cracked the vq25det m35 stagea ecu. Google ITS rom. I know he advertises on ebay, Facebook and is a member on SAU. Cant remember his user name but if you can track him down, would be worth asking him the question and seeing if there's anything he can do for you. Removing a speed limiter should be childs play for him if he can communicate with your ecu.

  • 3 months later...

Hi all just an update on removing the speed limiter.

after no help and no options as speed cut defenders rely on an ecu pin out and they just don’t exist for the v35 vq25 and totally different to other vq25 models.

figured let’s start with abs as that’s how it get is speed signal off the wheel sensors. 

First I pulled the abs fuses but speedo still worked, then unplugged the abs ecu still have speedo. Then unplugged the abs motor and the speedo stopped.

pulled the loom back and found that only 5 wires it could be as 2 are power, 2 are negative and then 4 pairs of wires twisted so I assumed they where going to the wheel sensors. So I was left with 5 wires that it could be.

1B28A293-D939-4FA3-855C-34D22F354C69.thumb.jpeg.e43b8e63c4dbac18a6e8b3a6837639d4.jpeg

 

Started by by cutting the blue one but wasn’t it.

then cut the red/yellow and it was the one! Abs still works but speedo and speed limiter gone! 

6CABB011-0E94-49DA-9618-B8C93AB8DC04.thumb.jpeg.6b122b8d5d7b2711b720637d26fbd171.jpeg

connected they up to a switch on the dash for now so I can switch it on and off, when I have more time I will work out the signal/voltage range and put in and voltage/signal hold at 180. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...