Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking for a R35 in Melbourne and not finding many condition one in the 110k mark


Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, 

very new here. was always a Silvia fan boy and had those s13 to all the way to multiple S15s to Evos and houses, houses and now back in looking for a R35s as they are a bit affordable. 
looking in Carsales, i am not finding many good coindition R35's in Melbourne for the price i am willing to pay.
Some of the other question, is it worth buying a 35... looking for one for a while now and driven multiple so far.. but looks like my budget will get me a 2011 model at best case which i am not sure is even worth? 
Alternate option is thinking Audi RS3s which doesnt compare i know.. 
i know someone of you keyboard warrior will probably flog me before a proper answer,, so yeah.. just looking for some of your honest answers if you own a 35. What are they like, known issues and so on.. 

 

Regards,
J

So what are you exactly asking? Can't afford an R35 in the condition you want?
You could wait another 12 months for lower prices and more money in your pocket

My old man was vaguely looking at secondhand R35s a few years ago. I'm sure they're even cheaper now, but from what research I remember: If you have the budget, you probably don't want anything pre-2011 facelift.

It got a power-bump and is reportedly more fuel efficient. Bigger brakes, revised suspension. If i'm not mistaken they did fettle with the gearbox too as the early-production ones don't have a great reputation for reliability (though those were probably owned by muppets who could only afford the early ones and launched it too any times for their mates).

Correct cant see the justification of spending close to 140k for a 2014+ 35 that i can probably get for 100 or 110 for a 2011. but then doing all the research and couple of test drive, a) not finding a good condition and b) getting 2nd thought on whether its a risk getting a 2011 ish model and save that extra 30 -40 k ... 

yes read about all the gearbox dramas. from the driving experience, handling wise i felt more confident on an Evo handling than a R35 handling, the Evo felt very grippy on the road where as the R35 didnt compare.. not sure if thats cause of tyre or suspension maybe.. . but anyway.. yeah so i am stuck on whether to get a 2011 even 

Depends what you want the car for.

Is this a recreational weekend car? track car? daily?

Good thing is you've got your budget - there's plenty of choice at that price point. Are you strictly thinking Japanese performance cars? You mentioned you might be cross-shopping with an RS3, but like you said - they're very different cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...