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Advice on upgrades

noperope
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noperope Apprentice

noperope

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Posted (edited)

Hello there and happy new year :D

I figured I'll start this year by putting some more horsepower under the hood. I'm currently running a R33 GTST with minor mods like FMIC, oil cooler, steel head gasket and Power FC which produces about 320hp. My initial target (on the road to 7-800hp) is about 420hp to make sure I learn to control the power but also not break the bank.

I've already acquire new manifolds as I'm going for a top-mount turbo. There are some minor things that I'm not 100% sure about that I need your guys opinion on. I'm thinking of the following:

- DW340 fuel pump
- ID1050x injectors
- Billet fuel rail (https://www.billet.net.au/products-page/nissan-fuel-rail-kits/billet-performance-products-rb25det-fuel-rail-kit/)
- Turbosmart 800 FPR, is it a good fit or should I consider something else?

Thanks in advance :)

Edited by noperope
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iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

In a forum first record you have actually picked good quality and correct modifications.

Only thing i would reccoment changing is the DW pump to a Walbro 460.

What turbo you running? Manifold? Gates? Clutch? 

Also sell PFC and buy link G4+ plugin ECU, far superior.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

The above information is very good, just keep in mind the wiring of the Walbro requires some love. Nothing crazy, plenty of people have done it without issues, but it's not as simple as "just connect to stock wiring" which lower pumps may be. I don't know if the DW340 is in that category either, but it is something to keep in mind.

Turbo choice is critical for a turbo car (duh). Clutch and Gates and setup may/may not be something to keep in mind depending on how future proof you want your goal to be, i.e 300-400hp on the way to 700.

It is exponentially better to go for the end goal from day one. It is also exponentially better/cheaper/more fun for your $ for that target to be the 400hp one instead of the 700hp one.

I am yet to hear of anyone ever regretting upgrading an ECU. Link G4+ or a Haltech Elite, if you can get something that is plug in you will be doing yourself a massive, massive, massive, massive favour.

noperope Apprentice

noperope

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys! Yea I realize there is some information missing. When it comes to turbo I got a hold of a GTX3076 (gen 1 though), I know there has been some discussions regarding the spool being laggy but I'm taking a bit of a gamble on that part and it's something I can live with. It should support me up to 640hp but at that point there will be bigger mods.

I already acquired the fuel pump during the holiday discount, the DW should actually, from what I've read be an easy install, but hey, we'll see.

The clutch is a bit of a mystery, as I don't know the exact model I don't know how much it will hold up for, however, it's a equivalent stage 2 and if it gives, it gives.

The Link ECU is certainly something that I would like to get installed, there are plugin available but they're not cheap. I'm already stretching the bank a bit for this project, I suppose the PFC ain't going to sell for much anyway.

When it comes for going for the full power from the start, well, I know myself too well lets say, ain't going to be pretty :)

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

GTX3076 is a pretty solid choice for a turbo. It's not the worlds best, but it's far from bad in the grand scheme of things. It can certainly generate enough power to destroy your motor.

Skyline builds really fall into two categories, one being your ~250-350kw mark where

a) Clutches last longer, easy to drive
b) Rear grip is plausible
c) Lag is not too bad
d) Single fuel pumps work on E85 or Gasoline
e) Can arguably get away with stock manifolds, low mounting, stockish type looks
f) Stock engine internals last longer (not forever)

Going above that means points a to f and likely many I have forgotten need to be addressed

"addressing" these means you advance the weak point to whichever problem you addressed least. It is rarely more expensive at that point to aim at 500KW instead of 351KW and ends up being a "replace everything" type of thing.

There is no setup that will work at 550kw that will work at 250-300kw unless it is a 550kw setup that has been turned down massively which is going to be sub optimal anyway as the turbo choice needs to be suited to your intended power.

The smartest thing anyone can ever do is make an informed decision about what they want, and stay on target. Everything else is going to make you sad and broke.

noperope Apprentice

noperope

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From what I've read the GTX3076 is rated at 400-640hp which brings it just in range of my initial safe goal. With safe I mean a tune that won't push the boundary of what the engine can take at this point as it's my daily driver. The plan after this is done is to attend to the internals and replace everything but then again, stay safe tune wise to have an engine that have a high probability to not blow up :) The ECU is of course something else that needs upgrading.

I was told by my tuner that the engine could, with stock internals hold up for about 450hp (stock head gasket would be below 400hp) but there is an increased risk of breaking pistons/rods so having a tune of max 400-420hp would be a better choice. Any opinion on this?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, noperope said:

From what I've read the GTX3076 is rated at 400-640hp which brings it just in range of my initial safe goal. With safe I mean a tune that won't push the boundary of what the engine can take at this point as it's my daily driver. The plan after this is done is to attend to the internals and replace everything but then again, stay safe tune wise to have an engine that have a high probability to not blow up :) The ECU is of course something else that needs upgrading.

I was told by my tuner that the engine could, with stock internals hold up for about 450hp (stock head gasket would be below 400hp) but there is an increased risk of breaking pistons/rods so having a tune of max 400-420hp would be a better choice. Any opinion on this?

I did 499hp on the stock HG and ARP studs with 25psi on E85.

Lasted a few years of track abuse, skid pans, more anti-lag launches than you'll see in a WRC season before it smashed a bunch of ringlands, valves, turbo, left metal lodged in the head, valves, turbo, exhaust. Followed by metal shavings in the oil cooler system, sump, pickup etc. Lol

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