Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha one thing that I've learnt from reading all this is to get a timing light and the timing checked properly.. 

I've been trying to figure out what plug the tps is on the NEO but can't seem to find it. Only the suggestion it's the brown one which I don't believe it to be on the NEO. 

Another thing is that when mentioning adjusting idle, that's via the screw on the iac correct?

Cheers fam.

  • Like 1

O.K

Not sure why but I am going to try and help further more

Think of the way ECU's work. Inputs tell it what is happening, ECU makes calculations and controls outputs to change the running conditions of the engine

Inputs talk to the ECU
Outputs are direction from the ECU

The CAS is an Input, so tells the ECU what is happening

When you set the base timing to 15 degrees, that is setting the BASEline for the timing, its point of reference. ECU shows input of 15 degrees
ECU fires coil packs at 15 degrees BTDC using the data obtained from the CAS. The coil packs are an output

As per above, unplugging the TPS on stock ECU is the best way to lock the timing, it is obvious when the ECU is altering the timing as you can see the timing jump around (a couple of degrees only)
If you are getting roughly double the expected value, I believe this is due to setting the timing light using the wire loop and not the plug lead method

Now think about this. Assuming your ECU is locked at 15 degrees output and is outputting signal to fire at 15 degrees, what should the input (reference) be?

A bit like your knock sensor discussion, I feel like you are overthinking it.

3 hours ago, spudtatoe said:

I've been trying to figure out what plug the tps is on the NEO but can't seem to find it. Only the suggestion it's the brown one which I don't believe it to be on the NEO.

It's not too hard.  The throttle is in the obvious place.  The TPS is on one end of the throttle shaft and the plug is attached to that.  You'll soon know if you've got the right one.

 

3 hours ago, spudtatoe said:

Another thing is that when mentioning adjusting idle, that's via the screw on the iac correct?

Yes, but it is essential that the IACV is clean and working too.  If you were to wind the idle down to 650 with the IACV stuck somewhere away from bottomed out, and the weather changed a lot, the idle speed could drop a long way.  Or vice versa.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
10 minutes ago, Slap said:

I thought it didnt add timming at idle

Why unplug tps?

It adds timing for idle stabilsation - I've said this before
Unplug the TPS so you can accurately set your base timing - which I've also said before

 

 

  • Like 1
It adds timing for idle stabilsation - I've said this before
Unplug the TPS so you can accurately set your base timing - which I've also said before
 
 
And even though i was shut down and just cant explain stuff so people understand and theres lots i wanna say.. ill keep it short.

What if the ecu is fooled by setting it at 850rpm ?

Will it stay in closed loop?

Is this what a redneck like myself would call anolog tuning?

I use a narrow band emulator from the plex300te will this make an impact on idle and the o2 readings to the ecu?

I missunderstood the way electricity was manipulated by the knock sensor , now i know it is a switching current is it worth monitoring on the safc as a trace graph?
12 minutes ago, Slap said:

Will it stay in closed loop?

What if the ecu is fooled by setting it at 850rpm ?

The ECU can't be fooled, it uses the CAS to determine engine RPM

2 full rotations of the crank = 1 full rotation of the CAS, i.e. it reads the home slot inside the CAS.

 

It's always in closed loop, until you unplug the TPS (this applies to OEM ECU only)

  • Like 1
The ECU can't be fooled, it uses the CAS to determine engine RPM
2 full rotations of the crank = 1 full rotation of the CAS, i.e. it reads the home slot inside the CAS.
 
It's always in closed loop, until you unplug the TPS (this applies to OEM ECU only)
I dont mean fooled with timing.

I mean fooled into stayin in closed loop.

By continualy forcing idle at 850rpm using the idle valve and modifying the maf signal with the safc.
1 minute ago, Slap said:

Will it then hunt timing?

If say the idle is dead at what it needs to be and the narrow band doesn't say it's too lean OR too rich (no idea what the voltage range is for the OEM Nissan ECU at stoich because I've never bothered to look), then theoretically the timing should be pretty stable, noting that the car is at operating temperature. This implies there isn't a timing compensation applied for a quick warmup strategy.

  • Like 1
If say the idle is dead at what it needs to be and the narrow band doesn't say it's too lean OR too rich (no idea what the voltage range is for the OEM Nissan ECU at stoich because I've never bothered to look), then theoretically the timing should be pretty stable, noting that the car is at operating temperature. This implies there isn't a timing compensation applied for a quick warmup strategy.

Ok getting there.

 

Warm up isnt involved with what im discussing...atm lol (different maps).

 

Now my cam gears are set ex advance 7°

In retard 2-3°.

 

Cas corrected manualy 7°

 

Will the o2 readings be wrong?

 

Will ecu do fuel trim?

 

Will ecu compensate timing based on fuel trims if needed?

 

Car is at 850rpm. closed loop?

This is still an idle off idle maps (atm) wanting to correct?

 

I use a narrow band gauge on the emulator to ensure the ecu sees readings according to plx300

 

Will the o2 readings be wrong?
No, if the combustion took place - if there are slight misfires then yes

Will ecu do fuel trim?
It always does, different IAT, different ambient temperature, different altitude 

Will ecu compensate timing based on fuel trims if needed?
No, the stock ECU doesn't care

Car is at 850rpm. closed loop?
It's always on closed loop, if the closed loop conditions are met, i.e. TPS 0%, within idle RPM range, etc.

This is still an idle off idle maps (atm) wanting to correct?
Not sure what you mean, sorry

  • Like 1

I would have thought that because of the advance on the ex cam it would make o2 rich. Because the valves are opening earlier and the burn processes has been compromised.

The car idles at 850rpm. The ecu isnt in an idle map. Does that mean my car truly isnt idling? Or is it still at an idle ?

How much can it correct +/- advance to try get back to idle map?

When your TPS position is at 0% you're essential on the zero throttle timing table like I posted up before.

I think you're understanding it differently, the car idles because it is commanded x amount on the IACV, and y amount of injection and z amount of timing. 

  • Like 1

Gents,

When Slap is asking about closed loop, he's talking about closed loop fuelling.  I suspect when Johnny Dose is talking about closed loop (in above posts) he's talking about closed loop idle speed control.  So, talking at cross purposes.

As has been posted before;

At idle (ie, TPS closed, ~0.45v) the ECU is definitely in closed loop idle speed control.

At idle, provided the O2 sensor is warm enough, the ECU will be in closed loop mixture control.  But this often fails and the ECU will just revert to the idle fuelling map.

At idle, the ECU does not change timing based on O2 feedback.

At idle, the ECU adds AND subtracts timing from the base 15° according to its needs for idle speed control, but is aiming to run 15° and control speed with IACV wherever possible.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Yes i was meaning closed loop fueling.

And still. At 850rpm is my car idleing?
And no i dont care about what map its on.

And i do use an upgraded wideband o2 sensor that converts it to a narrow band reading through an output to the original o2 pin wire on the ecu.

Its 850rpm.
The idle control isnt working to its programed function due to interference.
The car will?

Was it reving at 850 or idling.

Im no professor and have learned some stuff here but have you?

11 minutes ago, Slap said:

Yes i was meaning closed loop fueling.

And still. At 850rpm is my car idleing?
And no i dont care about what map its on.

And i do use an upgraded wideband o2 sensor that converts it to a narrow band reading through an output to the original o2 pin wire on the ecu.

Its 850rpm.
The idle control isnt working to its programed function due to interference.
The car will?

Was it reving at 850 or idling.

Im no professor and have learned some stuff here but have you?

What are you trying to learn here?

If the car is Idling too high ecu will pull timing, too low will add.

I have learnt nothing from this thread, I am also not a professor. 

  • Like 1

I will now quote myself.

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

At idle (ie, TPS closed, ~0.45v) the ECU is definitely in closed loop idle speed control.

And thus, yes it is idling.  It is not running on the main maps.

And the original argument was whether the ECU added 15° to a static 15° for a total advance of 30°BTDC, which is not the same thing as the ECU using delta control to manipulate the idle speed.

And Slap, RB20s have an actual TP switch, not just a sensor.  Idle is a binary input to the ECU.  You can prove it to yourself.  When it is idling, as you open the throttle (by hand, with your head above the engine), very slowly, you will hear the ECU double pulse the injectors just once.  That's the ECU seeing the idle position switch input disappear, and is actually a good way to adjust the idle position switch on an RB20.

The RB25s rely on the analogue from the TPS.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...