Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, 

Strange issue in the R33 I just purchased. 

The drivers side door wont lock or open with the key, can lock from inside when flicking the latch. Did some investigation, removed the door interior trim and found that there is a rod from the key lock just dangling/hanging down not attached to anything. I would think that this rod would attach to the actuator but I can't see anywhere on the actuator this rod would link to. I see other rods link to the actuator using colour coded clips but cant find where this one goes. 

Anyone have suggestions?

Ill post pics this weekend. 

Thanks

Hey GTSBoy, 

Thanks for your quick reply mate.

Yeah I did that. Seems to be different from the otherside. Ill check again on the weekend. 

for reference, it's this is the ROD but on mine I can't seem to hook it into the actuator. 

I must be missing something here. 

L451059A.jpg 

Hey Guys,

Thought I would let everyone know I found the issue. The rod going from the door key lock had like a piece attached to it, like one of the rod connectors, this one was yellow. This was just dangaling. Using the above image as a reference, I removed the actuator and found that this yellow attachment actually should be attached directly to the actuator in a special slot. It's kind like a pivot arm.

I think a repair was done to the plastic part of the actuator but failed causing it to just dangle down from the key lock. 

Super glued it all back together and works perfectly. 

Attached are some photos. 

20190416_170625.jpg

20190416_195422.jpg

20190416_195407.jpg

20190416_195402.jpg

20190416_195330.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...