Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I’ve done a search and couldn’t find anything on this specific topic.

On startup I have this weird buzzing sound from the rear of the car which goes away in about 10 seconds.

It’s definitely not the fuel pump. Sounds like something 4WD or HICAS related pressurising? It can be heard intermittently for about 2 seconds every 30 seconds or so after the first “prime”. 

Is it a normal V-Spec thing, or am I losing pressure somewhere?

Hope someone can shine some light on this.

Thanks!

21 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

Atessa priming. 

So this is normal?

It does it every 30-40 seconds for a second or two after the first prime.

This is my first GTR so I know nothing about what’s normal or not lol.

Edited by R33_Kris
4 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

You should be happy that's all you hear.

Just imagine in 1995, all these whizzbang fancy electronic stuff clicking and buzzing away while your neighbours had to pull a lever to prime their carburettor.

Very true!

14 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

welcome to nugget ownership!!!

Sounds like I may need deeper pockets lol

I had the same issue on my GTR. Change the Nitrogen canister on the atessa pump and bleed the system ( you can search for a how to )

Just jap sell the part.

https://justjap.com/manufacturers/332/genuine-nissan-attesa-nitrogen-accumulator-canister-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-stagea-c34-4wd.html

Edited by Myskyliner33
  • Like 1
5 minutes ago, Myskyliner33 said:

I had the same issue on my GTR. Change the Nitrogen canister on the atessa pump and bleed the system ( you can search for a how to )

Just jap sell the part.

https://justjap.com/manufacturers/332/genuine-nissan-attesa-nitrogen-accumulator-canister-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-stagea-c34-4wd.html

Hmm ok, so there is a problem then? I’ve read that the nitrogen canister causes the relays to click, haven’t heard anything about the canister and my issue till now.

So you had the same issue and replacing this fixed it? As in doesn’t make intermittent buzzing noises now?

Just want to be sure before I spend ~$480 on this!

The buzzing noise on my car was the atessa pump running. the relay will click on to turn on the pump.

If you start the car lay under the back of it and listen to the pump. if it turns on and runs every 30-40 sec then the canister needs changing. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...