Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Currently my R33 is running a blow thru z32 airflow meter in the cooler piping. Unfortunately this has damaged the sensor even though it is in a alloy housing. 

My car is running a PowerFC. Are my only options a link g4+ or Haltech Elite? Running these options are going to cost at least $3k with sensors/tuning. 

Turbo has a 4" inlet and tuner said is not possible to tune correctly due to the resolution or something along those lines. 

This is my second sensor and its getting to be a bit of a joke. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477190-how-to-delete-maf/
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Replace with R35 blade style AFM and build a cal curve for it in the PFC. It's doable, it's been done before.

Do you put the r35 one in the cooler piping or before the turbo? My tuner said due to turbocharger having 4" inlet on the intake housing it won't work due to resolution. Does this sound right? 

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

It can work in a 4" inlet, but you do lose resolution (you gain massive range on the flipside). But it can be troublesome to tune.

It is best put in the cooler pipe, after the cooler. Hot side is no good. Too hot.

R35 gtr sensor isn't designed to be used in cooler piping though? Is there any other options to delete MAF without spending big $ on a car worth 10k?

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What makes you say that it's not designed to work in the cooler pipe? They work perfectly well there. They are massively robust (physically) compared to the old style ones (like Z32 etc).

Because in the r35 gtr they are used in the turbo inlet so are not under pressure from boost. 

Am I able to delete the MAF using a Haltech Platinum Pro or Link G4+? What'd be the cheapest ecu to get rid of it with?

On 5/29/2019 at 6:13 AM, GTSBoy said:

I for one, would never have considered putting a Z32 into the cooler piping. I wouldn't hesitate to do it to do it with a blade style AFM.

You can delete the AFM with any half decent aftermarket ECU and a MAP sensor.

What do you know is the cheapest ecu that can delete the maf sensor which works well with rb25?

[emoji6][emoji16][emoji106]

 

Please view this ad:

 

Rb wolf ecu,

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/traralgon/engine-engine-parts-transmission/rb-wolf-ecu/1219707349?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android

 

 

 

Download the application from the Google Play Store.

https://tinyurl.com/n4b7djy

 

Best to get a new expensive tech and make it a 13k car instead though.

 

Also you can use both i believe on a crossover so at a certain load level or pressure level the map takes over from the maf alowing maf to be res king at low throttle and map to res load like a champ.

 

 

 

 

8 hours ago, Blakeo said:

What do you know is the cheapest ecu that can delete the maf sensor which works well with rb25?

A Link ecu nowadays is over $2k

An R35 MAF is about $300

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/listing-2165296325.htm?rsqid=df64a402735949a298abc4973537ce38-001

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...