Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTST Series 1 - New Boss Kit not cancelling Indicators

PashaK

By PashaK,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

PashaK Collaborator

PashaK

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

I've recently purchased a new momo steering wheel and an HKB Boss kit (ON-177) which is for HICAS and no airbag as my car does not have any airbags on my R33 GTST Series one (09/1993)

Everything has fitted together perfectly, the black plastic piece at the back of the boss kit fits over the horn plug socket and the Hicas lug attached to the clock spring no problem. My steering column has a white ring with 3 round small lugs that fit into 3 small round holes on the back of the boss kit, and they line up perfectly, which is for cancelling the indicators on wheel turn i believe.

With the stock steering wheel, indicators cancel perfectly, with this new setup they dont. I hear the clicking as the wheel is turned like you normally would hear it, but they just dont cancel. I've fitted and refitted, and checked and rechecked for hours, and nothing looks out of place. i also put the new wheel on, lined everything up, started the car, turned the wheel 90 degrees to the left, then took the steering wheel off and confirmed the white ring and 3 lugs rotated with the wheel exactly where i expected them to be.

I've compared the difference from the back of the original steering wheel to the back of the boss kit, and the only difference i can see is that the holes on the boss kit are about 1mm extra in diameter than the orig. wheel.

Attached are some pics of everything in question, I'm really hoping someone has come across this before as i'm at a loss as to whats causing it.

 

thanks in advance

IMG_20190622_120523.jpg

IMG_20190622_120554.jpg

IMG_20190622_121237.jpg

Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted

IIRC there should have been two plastic tabs/poles on your old steering wheel. These are used to cancel the switch when you start turning.

From the looks of your new wheel you're missing them.
(I might be off topic here as I'm referencing 10 year old memories).

PashaK Collaborator

PashaK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have seen references of this in my research, but i dont think i'm suppose to have them. My stock wheel is fine and turns off the indicators as it should. 

and if they were supposed to be on the old steering wheel, what would these plastics tabs fit into? theres nothing on the steering column except the clock spring and hicas mechanism.

If you could find me a photo of what your talkign about that would help alot.

Thanks for the reply

Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, PashaK said:

I have seen references of this in my research, but i dont think i'm suppose to have them. My stock wheel is fine and turns off the indicators as it should. 

and if they were supposed to be on the old steering wheel, what would these plastics tabs fit into? theres nothing on the steering column except the clock spring and hicas mechanism.

If you could find me a photo of what your talkign about that would help alot.

Thanks for the reply

Ok, sorry. I was misleading you. My recollection (while correct for me) isn't what you need.

The wheels you have need the three little holes there lined up perfectly. I would suggest that they aren't quite lined up exactly. 
To this I would start by measuring the holes on each wheel to make sure that they are exactly the same. 

If they are great, it should then be a matter of just adjusting your boss kit ever so slightly until the new wheel drops into the alignment points. Once it's there it will cancel the indicators for you. It might take a few goes to get it lined up right. You might want to use some tape or a pencil on the top of the wheel to ensure you can line up the top hole correctly.

PashaK Collaborator

PashaK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, I believe I've done everything you suggested. I used a black marker on the boss kit so i can see where the holes were as i was inserting it. if i noticed they were off slightly, i used a small tool to move the ring into place.

I also measured the diameter of the holes on old wheel and on boss kit and boss kit is 5mm, while old wheel is 4mm, but i dont think this is the cause.

 

And i confirmed that the white ring was rotating with my new wheel and boss kit.

 

Very strange

  • Like 1
Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted

My limited understanding is those holes must line up. I could be wrong here but if they're a different distance they may not all (3) be lined up when you put the wheel on.

I'm afraid I'm probably no further help though specifically on this one though. Sorry, best of luck. [emoji106]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...