Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure if this is allowed as it's my first post but here it goes,

I recently purchased a '94 R32 GT-R about a month ago and everything was great at first, and still is even in 2WD.

About a week after purchasing the car I noticed that the 4WD and ABS light would come on about every 1 in 10 startups(the lights wouldn't come on for about 1-3 seconds after startup and stay on). All I would have to do is turn the car off and back on again and the lights would go away. Then it started becoming more and more frequent to where eventually it was almost every startup the 4WD and ABS lights would come on. Most times I'd just move the car to a different spot and then turn it off and on again and the 4WD and ABS lights wouldn't come on if I restarted the car enough.

Now the lights will come on no matter what and I cannot get the ATESSA to work at all. I've pulled the fuses as I don't want to damage anything or potentially ruin the pump(if it hasn't been ruined already). This is the first GT-R I've ever owned so I searched the forums and saw the ATESSA fault code list. My car is pulling code 16 (lateral g sensor or circuit). So I checked my g sensor and its still white not red. I also checked the fluid reservoir in the driver side of the boot and it's a tiny bit above the max line.

Side note, I used to notice my car used to do a weird clicking every 4-5 seconds in the boot and sometimes the 4WD light would flash when it happened.

I've done quite a bit of research online so far but I'm not really sure where to go from here. Any advice or help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477728-atessa-problems-my-first-gtr/
Share on other sites

Just because your g sensor indicator is white not red just means is hasn't had an impact, it could still be electrically stuffed. Before that gets replaced though I think it's time to get the multimeter out and the R32 GTR manual to start chasing something. I'm sure it should give some resistance readings for the unit.

If you do find you do need the g sensor under the centre console I have a spare confirmed working R32 GTR unit.

You very likely need to do two things:

1. Replace the g sensor with a proper digital MEMS one, the stock one is literally a pendulum with some springs and an encoder that will wear out especially after 20+ years. Do-Luck and Midori-Seibi make one, just get the cheapest one of those two brands if you just need OEM equivalent. If the code doesn't go away start checking continuity anywhere you can to narrow down where the wiring fault is.

2. The nitrogen pump accumulator is probably spent, which is why you're hearing the clicking noises. Look for 41630-20U00 as the replacement part, it is next to the ATTESA-ETS pump: https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/158978-attesa-nitorgen-accumulator-cannister.html

Canister or ABS signal is not going to throw an atessa code 16 by itself though. You need the manual so you can check the correct place to check voltage values, sensor resistance and wiring continuity, so you can definitely say yes its the wiring to sensor, atessa ecu thats fault ect. or yes the sensor is stuffed but wiring, voltage ok ect. Don't guess, confirm.

13 hours ago, BK said:

Just because your g sensor indicator is white not red just means is hasn't had an impact, it could still be electrically stuffed. Before that gets replaced though I think it's time to get the multimeter out and the R32 GTR manual to start chasing something. I'm sure it should give some resistance readings for the unit.

If you do find you do need the g sensor under the centre console I have a spare confirmed working R32 GTR unit.

Thank you for the help, I'll go through all of the resistance readings today and see if that shows me anything.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

You very likely need to do two things:

1. Replace the g sensor with a proper digital MEMS one, the stock one is literally a pendulum with some springs and an encoder that will wear out especially after 20+ years. Do-Luck and Midori-Seibi make one, just get the cheapest one of those two brands if you just need OEM equivalent. If the code doesn't go away start checking continuity anywhere you can to narrow down where the wiring fault is.

2. The nitrogen pump accumulator is probably spent, which is why you're hearing the clicking noises. Look for 41630-20U00 as the replacement part, it is next to the ATTESA-ETS pump: https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/158978-attesa-nitorgen-accumulator-cannister.html

I'm definitely going to go for a Do-Luck sensor, do you think the Tarzan is worth spending more money?

I actually was leaning towards the nitrogen pump accumulator as well. My mechanic has one here in Japan for me already. So I'll give that a go too.

8 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

I would say it's ABS sensor (mine does the same, it's annoying).

I get the clicks/voltage drop/pump going off. Strangely enough my AWD works fine (when it hasn't crapped out), even on track days.

My guess is voltage supply.

Yeah, I would get random voltage drops and stuff like that too. I'll have to check that out thanks.

3 minutes ago, BK said:

Canister or ABS signal is not going to throw an atessa code 16 by itself though. You need the manual so you can check the correct place to check voltage values, sensor resistance and wiring continuity, so you can definitely say yes its the wiring to sensor, atessa ecu thats fault ect. or yes the sensor is stuffed but wiring, voltage ok ect. Don't guess, confirm.

Do you know where I can get a manual online in PDF format? 

The Tarzan sensor will be more aggressive on the FWD engagement, it will trick the controller into thinking that the lateral g force is greater than it really is. If you like the stock ATTESA feel with less AWD intervention then just get the OEM equivalent.

Canister should not throw code 16, it is an unrelated issue. But hearing the relays clicking the pump on every 4-5 seconds is a sign that it needs recharging/replacement. The code would likely only show up once the pump failed and could not build sufficient pressure.

a copy of the english r32 manual is here among other places: http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/gtr_32_service_manual.pdf

it is very common for earthing problems to create voltage issues. in particular, if the subframe has ever been out or dropped the earth strap the attessa is often forgotten. 

And I agree you are likely to have a nitrogen cannister problem (very common by now), and perhaps a wiring issue at the g sensor, or a failed sensor. Like BK said that "indicator" on the sensor is not a guarantee, it is literally just a stick on g force/shock sensor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...