Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

I have changed lately brake booster (second hand ) and install new braking pump. Bleed the system 5 times. My ABS is disconnected

Every time i press the brake pedal i hear one hiss sound, is that nornal or not? ( its not like a constant air leaking, just one short hiss when press )

When i press the pedal and start the engine i can feel the brake pedal is falling a little bit down. This is the only test i have done so far.

The braking system is not working too well lately, i need to use a lot of force to stop the front wheels at higher speeds around 100km/h.

I heard the braking system is not too good in this cars. What do you recommend to upgrade to improve the braking system? My leg is hurting sometimes from hard braking and i want to track day this car sometimes.

 

 

 

 

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Not true. They're pretty good.

I would suggest that your 2nd hand booster is no good. Get it rebuilt.

I have comparision how the braking works in different cars, I daily drive M5 E60 and Peugeot 407 and i am not using force on the pedal almost at all for hard and quick stopping from low speeds. After going back to my Skyline r33 when i use the same amount of force nothing happens.  I need to push pedal really hard to get the same results.  This is why i say the stock brakes are pretty bad in Skylines, or brake booster is too small and not doing the job.

Edited by Tomak

Problem is that i dont know if the brake booster works efficiently. What can i expect from the second hand 20 year old booster?

I did a test yesterday and disconnected brake booster and try to drive my car and the car had no braking power at all. I mean you could berely brake without booster it was so dangerous to drive, the handbrake was much  better without the booster. I guess the booster is working pretty good because the difference is huge.  Question is it working efficiently.

I wish i could purchase the new brake booster. Do you know if this part is available somewhere in Australia, Japan or maybe USA?

The part number i need is 23U11. Its the brake booster from GTS R33 since i have this one after the conversion swap RHD to LHD

It can be also refabricated if you know the source where i can get one.

 

 

Edited by Tomak

I have never driven a Nissan where you could not engage the ABS without excessive force on the pedal. When people say brakes are not good enough they usually mean that with many rapid applications they lose stopping power. If you have to stand on the brakes to pull the car up normally then there is a fault. Sounds like you were just unlucky with your replacement booster.

Has this problem existed ever since you disabled ABS? Sure all the brake lines are connected properly?

BTW almost any booster should do.

e.g. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/brakes/listing-2262431068.htm?rsqid=84e0244abd7f4ea2aea053cf26cb1d59-001

 

12 hours ago, Tomak said:

It can be also refabricated if you know the source where i can get one.

Take it** to a brake workshop. Give it to them with a small handful of money (like, <$200 worth) and wait a couple of days. Presto, rebuildo.

** The booster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...