Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the early stages of planning my RB30/25 Neo build - still trying to find a good RB30 block, they seem to be getting a little harder to get these days.

This will go into a ER34 which currently has a (tired) RB25DET NEO; but I won't be touching the engine that is in it until I have completed the new engine.

This will very much be a daily driver/gokart and would be quite happy making 350-400rwkw (even that's overkill), full boost at or around 3500rpm (max) would be my preference - I'm considering something like the EFR 8374 or perhaps the next step down.

I've read many of the threads and while there is some talk about these pistons I still have not managed to find a definitive answer for my preferred choice of piston material, 4032 pistons - smaller tolerances - ideally for the longevity, (slightly) improved detonation tolerance (over raw cast) and the fact that I would rather bore out that 25+ year old bore and replace the 25+ year old pistons, it seems logical to go with brand new pistons/rods... well aware of the general consensus that that the stock pistons and rods are good for 300rwkw.

For rods I will probably go with spool import conrods, for pistons it appears only Wossner and Mahle do a piston in 4032.

So my question being, using the RB25DET Neo head (we'll have to assume the head cc at this stage) and having a preference for around 8.75 - 9.0:1 compression ratio - does anyone have any recommendations on exactly which pistons would be required and exactly what work would need to be performed to the block - ie deck height (more so I know what I'm in for, ideally I would like to not have to mess with the deck height significantly more than a skim if avoidable)

Looking at the various catalogs it's very confusing in so much as I often cannot even find the pistons being listed on various retailers sites in the manufacturers catalogs.

 

Edited by lolhax

I'm in a similar boat as you, I spoke with Supertech recently and they advised that around that power level their 4032 forged pistons would need about 4 and a half thou of clearance. 

I'm still looking into other options... I was hoping to run less clearance if I was going to be using 4032 pistons 

Mahle specify a clearance of 0.0016" to 0.0024" (1.6 to 2.4 thou)

Wossner only appear to specify 0.07mm. (2.755 thou)

 

2 thou seems like an acceptable compromise, 2.755+ is getting a bit loose I rekon - what you can't gamble on is.... is this their accuracy confidence or them being excessively cautious. 

Stock clearance for a RB26DETT appears to be 1.377 - 2.16 thou and 0.59 - 1.377 thou for RB25DET... still quite the difference, also not sure why there is the difference between RB26DETT and RB25DET... more margin due to different piston composition or due to known higher factory PS rating?

 

Mahle Source: https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/media-global-&-europe/products-and-services/engine_components/2016-app-guide-final-rev1-compressed.pdf

Wossner Source: https://www.woessner-kolben.de/fileadmin/Downloads/Kataloge/Automobil_Automotive.pdf

 

Edited by lolhax
  • 1 year later...
7 hours ago, CowsWithGuns said:

Hey mate, what path did you end up taking here and how did it go? I'm in a similar position.

My rb30/26 was built using supertech pistons, was done a while ago, motor did around 50k making 350kw and 5k making 500kw. 
Had a health check done on the motor this week and came back perfect. 
Motor has little to no blow by and is insanely strong. 
Even on E85 I never got any noticeable contamination in the oil. 
And supertech rate them to 800hp I believe 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...