Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

 

i bought a half cut engine RB which needs the O2 replacement sensors.
dont have the chassis # but only have the engine #

RB26066718A

 

any idea what is the year make & if its from a normal GTR chassis?

 

Thanks in advance all...

 

BR,

 

Shaune

Edited by shaune
double info
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/
Share on other sites

hi Duncan, yes the problem is the model of O2 sensor... 

gtr32/33/34 is different.

its not a 32 rb26.

possible its 33 or 34 coz the CAS is the new type. Amayama requires chassis # to confirm which model of the sensors. I dont have that, only have engine #.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916458
Share on other sites

sorry, my point was that the o2 sensors you need match the ECU, not the engine. I may not be asking enough to understand the specifics, but if you have put the engine in a something, and need new o2 sensors, the model of engine doesn't matter.

It's the ECU that needs matching sensors. So, if you are putting it in something original (pic suggests you put the half cut engine in an r32) and have the original ECU, that is the type of o2 sensor you need. If you have put the engine in something else, you need to identify the ECU's model, not the engine's.

FWIW the fuel rail is 33/34 not 32 style, and as you said the CAS is not 32 style either

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916462
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

sorry, my point was that the o2 sensors you need match the ECU, not the engine. I may not be asking enough to understand the specifics, but if you have put the engine in a something, and need new o2 sensors, the model of engine doesn't matter.

It's the ECU that needs matching sensors. So, if you are putting it in something original (pic suggests you put the half cut engine in an r32) and have the original ECU, that is the type of o2 sensor you need. If you have put the engine in something else, you need to identify the ECU's model, not the engine's.

FWIW the fuel rail is 33/34 not 32 style, and as you said the CAS is not 32 style either

its running on stock ecu, problem is i have spare o2 sensor from my 32 rb26 engine (tried to swap it to see whats the difference) then only found out  but the thread & size is different.

normally would remove this & replace it with wideband sensors if using aftermarket ecu.

but since im running this stock, just need to buy the sensor coz the existing one is faulty.

dont have a r33 or r34 sample to compare.

like i said, i wanna order it but they asking me which year or chassis # before Amayama give me a price.

so back to my original question, anyone got any link to find out engine # year make?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916469
Share on other sites

Well, you could look at it with all the obvious clues......

It's not an R32 engine, and the dump pipe won't accept an R32 O2 sensor. So, it is therefore either an R33 or R34 unit. So, you could just ask the parts supplier what thread is on each of those (likely to be the same for both) and just go from there.

But now you bump up against the wiring problem. I have no idea about these specifically, but are the R32s 3 wire and the later ones 4 wire? Because you can't just go chuck a 4 wire onto a 3-wire loom. You're back to what Duncan said about matching the sensor to the ECU.

If you have spare R32 dump pipes, your best bet might be to fit those. Then they will accept R32 sensors and the planets will align again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916474
Share on other sites

Ring or email Kudos

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-front-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-185.html

They have all the O2 sensors. Tell them your R32 sensor was too small in diameter. The front and rear sensors are different so be sure you tell them what you need. You should be able to sort it out over the phone.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916504
Share on other sites

R32 GTR = 12mm thread

R33 / R34 GTR = 18mm thread like most wideband sensors (NTK, Bosch)

That's why a lot of dump pipes like HKS come with the reducers to suit all models of sensor, as I have a set of reducers that came with my HKS dumps that I didn't use as they were fitted to my 33 and weren't required. All are 3 wire, all are 0 -1v, but front sensor has square 4 pin plug (still only 3 wire) and rear has rectangular 3 pin plug.

That said I think they do bugger all in the grand scheme of things, and are probably only worth retaining on stock ECUs.

On a side note I believe it is nearly impossible to decode engine numbers with year and model makes, as this info is not contained within Nissan FAST. This means even Nissan can't tell you. The only thing I've noticed is RB26 blocks that were fitted from factory all seem to end with an A.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916535
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Ring or email Kudos

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-front-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-185.html

They have all the O2 sensors. Tell them your R32 sensor was too small in diameter. The front and rear sensors are different so be sure you tell them what you need. You should be able to sort it out over the phone.

TQ!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916537
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, BK said:

R32 GTR = 12mm thread

R33 / R34 GTR = 18mm thread like most wideband sensors (NTK, Bosch)

That's why a lot of dump pipes like HKS come with the reducers to suit all models of sensor, as I have a set of reducers that came with my HKS dumps that I didn't use as they were fitted to my 33 and weren't required. All are 3 wire, all are 0 -1v, but front sensor has square 4 pin plug (still only 3 wire) and rear has rectangular 3 pin plug.

That said I think they do bugger all in the grand scheme of things, and are probably only worth retaining on stock ECUs.

On a side note I believe it is nearly impossible to decode engine numbers with year and model makes, as this info is not contained within Nissan FAST. This means even Nissan can't tell you. The only thing I've noticed is RB26 blocks that were fitted from factory all seem to end with an A.

TQ! good info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916538
Share on other sites

33/34 sensors may fit physically in the dumps and have the right connectors (1x3 pin, 1x4 pin) but they won't necessarily behave properly with the 32 ECU as they may be a different chemistry (titania vs zirconia), I'm not sure if they are. The fact that 32 and 33 ECU is interchangeable probably means they will be OK

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916603
Share on other sites

Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi:

There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register)

After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33.

So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC.

I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say:

NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated

The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed.

Sensors:

R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich.

R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required.

Sensor heaters:

R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115).

R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115.

On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link.

http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916605
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, BK said:

Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi:

There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register)

After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33.

So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC.

I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say:

NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated

The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed.

Sensors:

R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich.

R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required.

Sensor heaters:

R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115).

R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115.

On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link.

http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf

wow, good info!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478765-need-info-rb26/#findComment-7916635
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...